Home > The Guide > Hornsby and the North > Planet Clare

NOTE: A permit is required to climb at this crag.
 
A south east facing crag that was originally developed back in the 1980s by Barry Jones. The few bolted lines at the crag date from that era.

The real attraction of the crag is its recent reinvention as a grit style crag, complete with British E grades, dubious natural protection and extremely hard moves. The well publicised climb "The Desire Factor" (E7 6a) was put up here back in 1996, and Steve Kelly (the first ascentionist) put up a string of other hard routes before moving to South Australia. There are also a number of E9 projects still awaiting first ascents.

Anyway, to get to the crag, park as for "The Temple of Doom" and follow the same track east. When you get to a burnt out car wreck (where you turn left to go to the Temple), turn right and follow the track down to the right hand end of the crag.

Climbs are described right to left, facing the cliff.

This crag is located within Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park and is not located on Barrenjoey Headland. Unfortunately this means that the crag is off limits unless you have explicit permission from NPWS.
 
Not Checked!

Entry Wall
There are three routes (grades 17 to 19) on the right hand wall (facing out) of the descent gully.

A 12m 24/25 Start: Under the low level roof where the descent gully reaches the bottom of the crag. Out the roof.	Spider Line 12m 17 Start: Below middle of wall, left of A. Up the wall.
Canadian Club 12m 14 Start: Below corner left of SL. Up the corner.

Lust for Life Wall
The wall extending to the left of CC.

Lust for Life 12m 24 Start: In the middle of the wall. Up, following the BRs.

Gav's Slab Problem 12m 25 Start: Below the blunt arete left of LfL. Up, following the RBs. Double RB lower off.

Project Wall

B (Project) 12m ?? Start: Just left of corner. Partially bolted line.	It'll Never Go 12m 25 Start: Towards left hand end of project wall. Up.
Jason's Return 12m 25 Start: Between ING and arete marking left end of project wall. Up.

Fuzzy Chicken Prow
The prominent prow with the dumped car at the base.

Fuzzy Chicken 12m 23 Start: On left hand side of the prow. Up, using a chipped hold. Lower off.	Chicken Without Chips 12m 24 Start: As for FC. Up as for FC, but without using the chipped hold.
Dave's Vision 12m 19 Start: At arete at left hand end of low angled slabs. Up the crack weakness just next to the arete.	C (Project) 12m E9 Start: Just around arete from DV. Up. Minimal gear.

3 Cracks Wall

D 12m 16 Start: Below corner left of the project. Up the corner to a double RB lower off.	The Desire Factor 12m 25 Start: Below arete left of D. Steep, bold arete with the only protection in a horizontal break just above the last of the difficulties. English grade: E7 6b. Steve Kelly 08/1996
Big Heavy Fridge 12m 23 Start: In middle of wall left of tDF. Up wall.	Bohemian Footstacker 12m 18 Start: Just left of corner left of BHF, and just right of dead tree. Up.
Mike's E5 12m 23 Start: At dead tree. English grade: E5.	Right Arete 12m 21 Start: Below arete left of ME5. Up the arete.
Left Arete 12m 23 Start: The next arete left of RA. Up the arete.	The Blackboard 12m 18 Start: Left of LA. Up.
E 12m 24 Start: Left of TB. Up (only known to have been toproped).	Mondo Madness 12m 21 Start: Left of E. Up past mono.
Harm's Way 12m 21 Start: Below offwidth left of MM. Up the offwidth.