Home > The Guide > Northern Beaches > Narrabeen Slabs

This is the obvious line of cliffs visible on the northern side of the Wakehurst Parkway, about 500m west of the Narrabeen Lakes Sport and Recreation Centre. It was originally used as an instructional area during the 1960s by John Davis and co.

The crag faces south and is quite shady until noon or so, so it's a really good spot in summer. Unfortunately the slabs also tend to seep quite badly (particularly during winter), so avoid them if there's been recent heavy rain. That being said, the rooves at the far end of the slabs are almost guaranteed to be dry, regardless of the weather.

Many routes require natural gear for pro and / or belays. The descent for the main slab routes is at the left end, or rap off a suitable tree (ie. a tree bigger than your arm - don't do what some European visitors do and rap off dead shrubbery!).

To find the crag, it's easiest to start at the Sport and Recreation Centre on the Wakehurst Parkway. From here, drive about 500m west until a large gravel area is visible on your right. Continue on for about 200m and park on the left in the next small gravel area with a small cutting.

Opposite this is a locked gate that marks the start of the walking track. Follow the track in for about 150m until you find a large open area with a green exhaust stack. Turn right here, cross the creek bed then follow a single walking track that winds up the hill for about 50m to the left hand end of the crag.

On a more unsettling note, it appears that local mountain bikers have been "developing" biking tracks in the Narrabeen area. They have been seen clearing gullies and tracks in the area, including extensively chipping rocks and rolling logs down the hill to clear paths. Access, people, access! Local bureaucrats just love finding excuses to prohibit recreational access to Sydney's bushland areas - don't let the mountain bikers (or anyone!) spoil it for us!

The climbs are described left to right, facing the cliff.

Son of a Bad Man 12m 24 Start: Below obvious flake 2m left of H. Climb flake and wall via 4 RBs to double RB lower off. Note: This route was an old abandoned project, complete with a rusty chain lower off and a couple of pre-drilled bolt holes. There is also a suspect pocket in the lower half of the route which is not the work of the first ascentionist! Chris Yeomans 17/06/2005	Hampsters 10m 23 Start: At far left hand end of slabs. A great and varied slab. 3 FHs to chain lower off.
Some Girls Wander By Mistake 14m 22 Start: As for K. After interesting start (crux), step left as for K then after the 2nd RB step left again. Straight up wall past 2 RBs via a large pocket on the left to double RB lower off (4 RBs in total to double RB lower off). Chris Yeomans 03/07/2004	Kiosks 10m 22 Start: 5m right of H. Up diagonal flake / ramp (RB) then step left into seam. Follow this (2 RBs to double RB lower off).
Show Us Your Ticks 10m 22 Start: As for K. A direct and more sustained variant to Kiosks. Follow the line of RBs to the lower-offs. Craig Dungey 09/12/2001	Elmo Needs Some Air 12m 23 Start: 2m right of K. Up and right to flake (small cams possible), hard past RB then easier past cam breaks to lower offs. Dale Tweedie, Chris Yeomans 19/12/2004
Iron Chef 13m 23 Start: As for F. Follow F past BR and FH, then step left onto pedestal. Slopers and friction moves trend up and left initially, then up wall via pockets and small edges (3 RBs) to double RB lower off. Chris Yeomans 10/10/2004	Frantic 15m 21 Start: 7m right of K. Athletic start. Head up past BR and 3 FHs, then step right and back to fourth FH. Over two bulges to double RB lower off. Jeff Boyton, Gayle Matus 01/2002
Into the Void 15m 19 Start: At highest part of wall, below big jug (3m right of F). Boulder to jug, balancy slab past 3 BRs.	Mum's the Word 10m 16 Start: 3m right of top of ItV. Second pitch of ItV. Onto clean wall and up. Rod Kotkis, Jeff Boyton, Nicole Dombrain 13/03/1999
For the Good of the Claws 15m 24 Start: 4m right of ItV. Thin. Up to new BR, then trend left to finish up ItV.	Manic 17m 17 Start: 3m left of AS. An excellent climb with interesting moves. Follow the right-arcing line. 4 FH to double RB lower off. Originally graded 19, but a few people have suggested that it's a bit easier than that. Jeff Boyton, Rod Kotkis, Edward Fairleigh, Nicole Dombrain 11/2001
Ag Science 13m 16 Start: 1m left of seam. Line of 4 BRs (bring bolt plates) up slab to finish as for M (DRB lower off).	Technical Short Talk 12m 18 Start: Marked. 2m right of seam. Up to BR, left across scoop (crux). Pleasant wall past 2 BRs to double RB lower off.
Kicks 12m 18 Start: 1m right of TST. Up the wall past the hole then a delicate finish past the final bolt. Recently rebolted (or are those the bolts on T?). Originally graded 20, but a few people have suggested that it's a bit easier than that.	Taranesque 12m 20 Start: 1m right of K. Delicate smear or desperate move past first BR. Straight up. 3 BRs to double RB lower off. There is some debate over whether this climb partially or fully overlaps K. Jeff Boyton 11/2001
Common Origin 12m 16 Start: Marked. 1m right of T. Up slight ramp to hole (new BR). Wall (cams) then finish past BR. New double RB lower off. Craig Martin, John Davis 14/11/1982

The next 2 routes are on the small, steep upper cliff line above the slab.

Wimples 10m 24 Start: Above CO. Steep second pitch to CO. Lunge off ledge then trend right through scoop. 3 manky BRs.

Dimples 15m 21 Start: As for W. Clip the dodgy looking bolt(s) and keep heading right across the scoop. Finish up the right hand side of the arete (no gear - groundfall potential). Unseconded. Steve Kelly 1998

Back to the slab.

Common Sense 12m 17 Start: Marked HTS. 3m right of CO. Crimp past 2 BRs and small cams.	TPI 10m 15 Start: 2m up right of CS, just right of crack. Crack to break, then trend right past BR.
Question Marks 7m 14 Start: 4m right of TPI. Up crack, left past old BR.

The following 4 routes are on the block downhill from CO.

A 10m 18 Start: On the huge block in front of the cliff. Up pleasant, slightly overhanging wall past BR and 2 FHs. Double BB belay on top of block.	Quick Fang Down the Parkway 10m 18 Start: 3m right of A. Up T (thread runner possible) to first bolt (now replaced). Up steep wall past break and mantle onto ledge. Final headwall brings jugs to finish. 4 RBs to tree belay, or belay as for A. Chris Yeomans, Duane Maxwell 19/07/2003
Trickles 10m 21 Start: As for QFDtP. Follow lip past 3 RBs. Mantle then straight forward finish as for QFDtP (RB). Belay as for A or QFDtP.	Communal Nose 12m 9 Start: 8m right of T. Pleasant right arete of the block (little pro). Craig Martin, Russ Davis 14/11/1982

Back to the slabs.

Lunatic 19m 18 Start: 7m right of QM. Nice moves up black wall to third RB. Move right to fourth RB through broken blocks and straight up steep headwall, searching for good holds. 5 RB to double RB lower off. An excellent route by many accounts! Rod Kotkis, Nicole Dombrain, Craig Dungey, Jeff Boyton 12/2001	Fat, Sallow and Drunk 15m 24 Start: 3m right of L. Up middle of slab to thin dead tree, and up block above. 5 RBs to double U bolt lower off. The first RB is quite high so either stick clip it or take care.
Muscoviet Mosquito 15m 18 Start: 3m right of L. Companion route to Lunatic. Follow the clean slab up to a small roof, over this, finishing up obvious flake / right edge of blunt arete (opposite arete of summit headwall to Lunatic). 5 RBs to double RB lower off. Chris Yeomans, Nick Clow 24/04/2004	Colonial Mentality 10m 8 Start: 8m right of FSaD, below corner crack at the far right hand end of the main slab. Up the corner crack. FRA: Craig Martin (solo) 02/07/1984
Born Under Lunges 12m 18 Start: 2m right of CM. Up overhanging nose then step right. 3 BRs. Craig Martin, SID 03/08/1984

3 steep routes start in the cave beneath the hanging arete.

B 18m 21 Start: Marked 20. 5m R of BUL. Good sustained climbing. Up short wall past 1 BR and 2 FHs, then swing left past RB to RB on nose (lie down rest). Up the airy thin head wall past 2 FHs and chain lower off.	C 8m 18 Start: As for B. A big, excellent and easy roof - one for the masses! Steeply past BR and 2 FHs to roof. Great positions out roof past FH to chain lower off in break.
Unfair Dismissal 15m 21 Start: As for C. From the end of C, continue out then up the vertical face / arete to the top of the cliff. Anchors are set back 2m on a small wall. This climb is difficult to clean - it's probably easiest to backjump.	D 15m 24 Start: 2m right of C. Boulder up the initial wall, then out the impressively steep territory above. Be wary of the big slung "surfboard" (it doesn't look particularly strong and the sling is starting to get a bit long in the tooth), and also when clipping the bolt just above it - if you blow the clip you could easily hit the deck. 2 RBs, sling on surfboard, FH to fixed biner lower off. There is also a chain lower off / rap anchor on a ledge above the climb (but below the top of the cliff).
Sweet Mercury 12m 15 Start: 5m right of the cave, below the first crack. Up the crack. Craig Martin 05/04/1984	Shivering Jemmy 10m 17 Start: 10m right of SM, below thin crack. Boulder thin crack past cams and poor PR. Up to BR and thread runner. Straight up crack above, or belay and exit right along slippery ledge. Craig Martin, SID 03/04/1984