Home > The Guide > Southern Highlands > Mt Alexandra

A big thank you to Geordie Williamson for editing the original (1998) guide to the crag.

A large (by suburban standards) crag located less than 10 minutes drive from the centre of Mittagong, in the centre of the Southern Highlands. While not technically part of Sydney, I've included Mt Alexandra since it's a significant sandstone crag that's unlikely to be published in any other guides for a while (the 1997 "Hot Rocks" guide having covered many of the other significant crags in the area).

Although it's at a higher altitude than most of the other crags in this guide, Mt Alexandra can get hot, since it faces almost due North. The shady surroundings provide some relief, but make sure you pack the sunscreen, even in winter!

Having been only recently developed, the crag is very well equipped with good quality fixed protection. While there are also some good natural routes they are definitely the exception, and you need to be careful of anything smaller than about a number 2 Wild Country rock (the rock here is quite fine grained and soft). The rock also tends to form these big rounded shields that have been known to pull off from time to time, particularly seeing as the crag has not seen a huge amount of traffic yet. Take care.

To get there, head down the Hume Highway past Campbelltown and on towards Goulburn. Take the Mittagong exit (if you get to Goulburn, you've gone too far!), and head down the main street until Victoria St appears on your right. Take the next right after Victoria St, then circle back to meet it (there's a concrete divider that prevents cars from turning right directly onto Victoria St). Follow Victoria St up a short, steep hill and park in the carpark at the end. Walk through a small cutting to the left and wander on down the hill to the start of the crag.

There is some ok bouldering on the smaller walls to your right as you walk in ("Sicko Wall" and "Garth's Gallery"), as well as some good bouldering at the "Mega Choss" bouldering area further down the hill (continue straight down instead of tracking right under the cliff).

Climbs described right to left, facing the cliff.

First Cave
A good looking cave with nice orange rock. There is also some good bouldering along the base. The first two routes are just to the right of the cave.

Snuffs Enuff 12m 20 Start: The first route you come to. Balancy start (without using the side of the cave) leads to delicate moves over the slight bulge to an easy headwall. 5 RBs to double RB lower off. Simon Vaughan, L. Robinson 03/06/2001	Dancing with Deborah 12m 23 Start: 2m left of SE. Route with FHs. Unpopular.
Death of a New Car Salesman 10m 20 Start: At very right hand end of cave, behind tree. Up (5 RBs, 2nd is hard to clip) to U anchor lower off. Try not to damage the tree when lowering off. Mark Woodard 05/1997	Progress Comes to Shitsville 10m 22 Start: Left of DoaNCS, below crack. Up to crack (crux) then up and right to jug. Out roof on jugs to glory. 3 RBs (2nd is hard to clip), clip double RB anchor on lip then continue up and right to lower off as for DoaNCS. Sustained. Mark Woodard 25/04/1998
A 10m 24 Start: Left of PCtS, below round feature. Up into closed corner and up. Move left and out to double RB on LHdlD. Finish as for LHdlDDF. 6 RBs in total (including the anchor on LHdlD). Graeme Hill 25/04/1998	Los Hermanos de la Denitente 10m 23 Start: Left of A. Hard start (or stand on cheatstone). Up wall (crux) to roof. Pull through roof to small cave (double RB lower off). 4 FHs in all. Garth Miller 15/08/1992
Los Hermanos de la Denitente Direct Finish 15m 23/24 Start: As for LHdlD. From lower off, continue up to crimp then move right (RB) to flake. Easy to double RB lower off. Graeme Hill 25/04/1998	Biafra 12m 26 Start: Next to trees near left edge of cave. Stick clip first RB, then bouldery, powerful moves to a good rest. Sustained moves up wall then out steep territory above to double RB lower off. 6 RBs in total. Cameron Breeze 07/06/1999
Biafra Extension 16m 27 Start: As for B. Up B then up past 2 RBs to pull through roof.	The Nose in 4 Minutes 9m 22 Start: Below nose at left hand side of first cave. Racey start to balancy headwall. 3 RB's to DRB lower off. Simon Vaughan, Gavin Murray 14/02/2004
Chook 12m 20 Start: 5m left of TNi4M. Undercut start, then slab to sustained head wall. 5 FHs to lower off. Unknown 2000

The following six climbs are scattered between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall.

Corner From Hell 15m 16 Start: 15m left of C. Up obvious corner (dubious pro) to tree belay. David Duke (solo)	Surprise 15m 20 Start: 10m left of CFH, near tree. Up past 4 RBs to double RB lower off. Gavin Murray, Simon Vaughan 21/04/2002
Mousetrap 10m 19 Start: 2m left of S. Fine short wall to ledge. Beautiful balance moves to last bolt. 4 RBs to lower off on T. Simon Vaughan, L. Robinson, Gavin 19/08/2001	Trollberg 16m 19/22 Start: 2m left of M, below bulgy wall. Up wall (RBs) to double RB lower off. Weird crux at 3rd RB can be avoided on left (grade 19). Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko 12/1997
Pinocchio's Nose 18m 18 Start: 2m left of T, below dirty corner crack. Up the crack (4 RBs plus natural gear) to tree belay. Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko 11/1997	The Red Room 16m 18 Start: 2m left of PN. Haul onto wall, then edge up arete passing 4 RBs. Double RB lower off. Mick Wever, Simon Vaughan, Gavin Murray 17/12/2001

Vox Populi Wall
The prominent blank looking black wall with a small overlap near the top, just left of PN.

Dorothy the Dinosaur 16m 17 Start: 4m left of PN. Up past 5 RBs and through overlap to double RB lower off. Was a rather technical 18 until I ripped a big bit of rock off the crux on the 3rd ascent, leaving a jug! Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko 11/1997	Three and a Half Thousand 16m 20 Start: 1m left of DtD. Lovely slopey slab climbing, and just a tad runout to keep you on your toes. Up with increasing difficulty past 3 RBs to double RB lower off. Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko 11/1997
Vox Populi 15m 18 Start: 5m left of TaaHT. An excellent and engaging climb up the groove and through the small roof. Take wires and cams for the wall, then up past 3 FHs to U anchor lower off. Take care pulling through the roof - a lot of people seem to pull bits of rock off there. Garth Miller, David Duke 12/07/1992	Vox Populi Lite 15m 22 Start: As for VP. Up Vox Populi to move left at ledge at bottom of crack and up thin looking wall to gain lower off ring on Vox Populi finish. Protect using good preplaced cams in break above the thin wall with long slings and pro as for Vox Populi up to and including the crack. Gavin Murray, Simon Vaughan 08/01/2002
Michael in Shorts 15m 16 Start: 3m left of VP, below corner. Up the corner then over the overlap (BR) to tree belay. Craig Martin 1996	Michael in Shorts Variant 15m 18 Start: As for MiS. At the break above the BR, traverse right to join VP.
Digit Dave 15m 12 Start: As for MiS. Up corner then move left and up second vague corner. David Duke, Simon Duke 17/05/1990

Central Area
The large area centred around the big corner crack around the arete from the Vox Populi Wall.

Open to Public Scrutiny 20m 14 Start: Below right hand slab. Ramble up slabs, clipping BRs as necessary. Used to have 4 BRs, but one may have fallen out recently. Garth Miller, Jay Williams 04/07/1992	B 15m 15 Start: At vegetated corner 2m left of OtPS. Deduct a star if you avoid the 2nd pitch. P1. 12m (14/15) Avoid vegetation in initial corner, then head up the lovely corner above. At top, either step left (14) to belay as for QDS, continue straight up past BR (15), or move right to tree (14). P2. 6m (15) The deceptively tricky thin yellow corner crack / flake 5m right of P1. Natural belay. P1. Craig Sloss 1991. P2. David Duke (solo) 1990
Piccolo Luna 8m 20 Start: 3m right of P2 of B. Up nice compact wall past 2 RBs to DRB lower off. Simon Vaughan 20/01/2004	Quart de Seicle 15m 19 Start: 3m left of B. Up the easy slab (2 BRs) to overhang (FH). Pull through overhang then move right (crux) to FH. Up (FH) to double RB lower off. Be careful through the crux - you could hit the ledge below if you fall. Garth Miller 08/08/1992
Deception 15m 19 Start: As for QDS. Up QDS until past the overhang. Move left and up past another FH to top (BB). Garth Miller 28/11/1992	Deception Variant 15m 20 Start: As for D. Continue traversing left from the FH on D (runout - apparently there was a bolt here once). Garth Miller
C 15m 17 Start: As for QDS. Up slab as for QDS then move left to steep yellow corner. Up the corner (BRs and small wires) to tree belay. Tim Cartwright 1991	C Piker's Variant 15m 15 Start: As for C. At stance halfway up corner, move left around arete and up the easy wall to rejoin C. Peter Monks 11/1997
In the Inn of the Sixth Happiness 20m 13 Start: As for QDS. Up to first BR on QDS, then move diagonally up and left and over bulges past BRs. Continue up (BRs) to tree belay. Rather runout. Garth Miller, Jay Williams 27/12/1991	Snooze and You Lose 20m 14 Start: 5m left of ItIotSH. Up the seam. Garth Miller (solo) 27/12/1991
Parents in Pain 20m 15 Start: 2m left of SaYL. Up and over bulge (small wires - hard to protect) to prominent arete. Move easily up arete (FHs and BRs) to natural belay. Garth Miller, Jay Williams 01/09/1991	Parents in Pain Pussy Variant 20m 13 Start: As for PiP. At bulging overhang, move right and up then rejoin PiP.
D 20m 10 Start: 2m left of PiP below large corner. Up the corner. David Duke (solo) 12/03/1990

There's been a large bee hive below the overhang in the following section for quite some time. Take care if you're climbing here!

Pre Pimple Pop 10m or 15m 19 Start: 7m left of PiP, below imposing overhang. Up onto slab (BR). Out overhang to U anchor, or continue up juggy choss to top. 4 BRs in total (and optional cam between 3rd and 4th BRs). Garth Miller, Tim Cartwright, Craig Sloss 04/07/1991	Judas Escariot 10m 20 Start: 2m left of PPP. Hard move to gain slab then up through overhang (2 BRs) and up corner above (wires). Chain lower off on left. Tim Cartwright 06/07/1991
Mango Tango 15m 22 Start: Below small corner left of JE. Up corner (2 BRs), over small bulge (small wire) and up (BR) to chain lower off. Garth Miller 06/07/1991	E 15m 14 Start: As for MT. Up MT, but continue up crack. Worthless. Flint Duxfield (solo)
F (Project) 15m 25? Start: 7m left of MT. Dodgy bolts.	Project Drill Attack 15m 23 Start: 15m left of MT. Up (RB) then left and power through overhang. Just waiting for a chossy direct start! Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko 1997
Manchester United 15m 20 Start: 1m left of PDA. Boulder start to first RB then up past 3 RBs to mantle through to another RB to DRB lower off.	The Big Day Out 15m 24 Start: Left of MU. Stick clip BR then up to huge reach. Continue up (BRs) to cave (rap chain). 5 BRs in total. Garth Miller 08/07/1992
Quickie Quimsil 12m 25 Start: 3m left of TBDO. Stick clip first BR then hard and sustained moves (RBs) to double RB lower off (awkward to clip). The grade on this one has bounced around a bit - originally it was graded 24, then it got downgraded to 23, but recent reports indicate it's more like 25. Graeme Hill 05/1997	Suspended Animation 10m 24M1 Start: 2m left of QQ. Stick clip BR and batman to black hole. Move up past 2 BRs to chains (crux). Garth Miller 21/06/1992
G 10m 25 Start: Left of SA. Follows the right hand of the two thin weaknesses (RBs). Double RB lower off.	H 10m ?? Start: Just left of G. Follows the left hand weakness, passing 5 new FHs.
Ramble Scramble 10m 5 Start: At left end of wall. Up left slanting corner crack. Nicki Munro, Anton Weller 14/11/2004	I 10m 10 Start: Below the crack left of H. Up the crack. Craig Sloss

The Boulder
Located downhill from SA is a large boulder with the following three climbs on it.

I'd Rather be Gardening 10m 12 Start: At the left hand side of the boulder (facing uphill). Up the filthy wall with no pro. Absolutely worthless. Uncle Tom Cobbly and all	J 7m 16 Start: On the left hand side of the bottom wall of the boulder. Hard start then up to chain (3 BRs).
K 7m 16 Start: On the right hand side of the bottom wall of the boulder. Up (dodgy BRs).

The Main Cave
The obvious massive cave with the high rooves, 50m left of SA. The first 5 routes are located on the small buttress just before and above the cave proper. Most of the routes in the cave itself are variants of one another.

L 10m 8 Start: Below twin diagonal cracks 30m left of SA Up. Good pro. Craig Sloss (solo)	M 10m 17 Start: Arete left of L. Start up left side, then move right and up. No pro. Tim Cartwright (solo)
N 10m 25 Start: As for M. Straight up left side of arete, with only 3 holds! No pro	O 10m 14 Start: Below chimney / corner left of N. Up the corner. Craig Sloss
El Captain Pants 10m 17 Start: 4m left and down from O, below prominent wall. Climb onto block and place gear out left (back it up). Follow the disappearing crack right to pocket then up pleasant wall (2 BRs) above. Flint Duxfield, Geordie Williamson 14/03/1998	Three Wise Monkeys 10m 22 Start: Just left of ECP at blunt arete. Up past 2 BRs and a FH. Geordie Williamson, Fint Duxfield 14/03/1998
White Limbo 20m 19 Start: As for ECP, at traverse line. Some good jugging through a small section of the main roof. Traverse left (mid size cam and 2 BRs) to small roof (BR). Up and left (2 FHs) to double RB lower off. Garth Miller 07/07/1991	What Would You Say if I Said to You that this Gun was Loaded? 20m 19 Start: Below WL, just left of tree. Easy start up nice slab to BR then continue up (crossing WL) to upper wall. Move left to crack and follow it until forced right. Continue up and left to tree belay. Flint Duxfield 21/04/1998
Opiate 20m 19 Start: As for WWYSiIStYttGwL(!). Up to first BR on WWYSiIStYttGwL. Step left and up to BR then continue up to cross WL (BR) and up the final wall (cam, BR) to dodgy lower off chain (used as an aid piece for the bolting of WL). Geordie Williamson, Flint Duxfield 21/04/1998	White Limbo Direct 20m 19 Start: As for O. Up O to WL, then finish as for WL. Flint Duxfield. 04/1998
Desparate Liaisons 15m 27 Start: Left of O, below middle of roof. Stick clip first BR, then dyno and slab up to roof. Out the lovely roof to double RB lower off just over lip. 7 RBs in total. Garth Miller 20/08/1992	Ultine Demence 15m 27 Start: 4m left of DL. Up to 3rd BR, then move right and up past 5 more BRs (stay right) to chain. Garth Miller 28/01/1993
Controlled Hysteria 15m 25 Start: As for UD. At 6th BR of UD, head left past BR to chain. Garth Miller 01/09/1991	Diagonal du Fou 15m 23 Start: As for UD. Up to 3rd BR on UD, then continue slightly left and over small roof (crux). Traverse left to lip then follow lip out right to the chain on CH. 9 BRs in total. Garth Miller 06/06/1992
The Cave Direct (Project) 13m 21? Start: 3m left of UD. Up to join DdF then continue past 3 BRs. Go straight past an RB and the FH on CH to finish at the chains on CH. Geordie Williamson, Flint Duxfield	Diagonal Hysteria 15m 25 Start: As for TCD. Up TCD to 5th BR, then go straight ahead past an RB to join CH.
Out on a Limb 10m 21 Start: 10m left of TCD. Move right (natural pro) to sit down under roof. Out as for DdF. Flint Duxfield 1997	Fright of the Bumbly Bee 40m 12 Start: As for OoaL. As for OoaL, but at roof continue with feet on lip (natural pro). Continue round to double RBs on WL. Rap. Flint Duxfield, Geordie Williamson 1996
Empire of the Senseless 10m 17 Start: As for OoaL. Straight up (U anchor at top of wall for top roping). Garth Miller (solo)

20m left of the cave is a thin crack / seam. This is a V0 top rope problem called "Seamingly Sane". 30m past that is a collection of V3 - V5 boulder problems on a pocketed wall.
 
The following 3 climbs are located 50m beyond the pocketed wall at a prominent corner.

People Everywhere 15m 19 Start: Below large easy corner. Up the corner then move right to the crack and up. A bold lead.	Everyday People 15m 17 Start: As for PE. Follow the corner then blast up the headwall. No pro on headwall. Garth Miller (solo)
Weird People 15m 18/19 Start: As for EP. Up EP to headwall, then move left until 1m right of the arete. Up. No pro on headwall.