Sun, Surf and Sandstone - A Rockclimber's Guide to Sydney

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Kalkari

NOTE: A permit is required to climb at this crag.

A great, harder crag in a lovely bushland setting. Unfortunately it's another one of the crags that lie within the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park (which doesn't allow climbing without explicit permission). Not only that, it's also located very close to the Kalkari NPWS information centre, and many climbers have been fined and/or had their gear confiscated for climbing at the crag. Don't risk it.

Park at the Kalkari information centre and walk south for about 200m. The crag degenerates towards its left hand end.

Climbs described left to right, facing the cliff.

Not Checked!

Gothic Horror 12m 20
Start: In a small corner below the right hand edge of a big cave (about 12m left of a prominent, grotty corner crack).
Up the corner (BR) and over roof to cave (BR). Up the right hand edge of the cave and the slab above (BR).

Watergate 12m 23
Start: 3m right of GH, below a vague orange corner.
Up the corner for 2m then left to a ledge (BRs). Up steep wall, over roof and up delicate groove (3 BRs).

White House 12m 23
Start: As for W.
Up W for 2m then right (BR) and up over roof. Up wall to small cave (BRs), then either finish up W or traverse right to the chain on RFB.

Rapid Fat Boys 10m 25
Start: 3m right of WH.
Up flake (BRs) to roof (BR). Continue up wall (2 FHs) to cave and chain lower off.

The American Way 12m 21
Start: 4m right of RFB (2m left of the grotty corner).
Blast straight up the pumpy wall, passing 7 BRs and a FH.

Just right of tAW is a grotty corner crack and a crappy slab.

Traction in Action 9m 24
Start: Marked "M".
Up for 2m, then step left and up (3 BRs) to belay (tree).

Mesopotamia 10m 21
Start: As for TiA.
Straight up (BR) then up and right to little cave (BR). Continue up and right (BRs) then back left to belay (tree).

Greg Moore's Dog 12m 22
Start: 2m right of M.
Up the steep sustained corner.

Greg Moore's Dog Direct Start 4m 21
Start: 2m right of GMD.
Up the tenuous corner (BR).

Rushmore 15m 26
Start: 2m right of GMDDS, below steep little wall.
Steep, pumpy and sustained. Stick clip first BR, the head up and right through roof, left over bulge and up to top. 7 BRs in total (2nd is dodgy).

UK Boltfest 25m 24M1
Start: 6m right of R.
Batman to first FH, then up short corner. Move left and over a roof to a stance, then continue up and right across wall. 9 BRs in total.

Led Zep 78 20m 26
Start: 4m right of UKB.
Excellent climbing up the increasingly steep wall (8 BRs).

Snatch of Glory 17m 22
Start: 5m right of LZ78.
Follow the line of BRs up a vague weakness.

A block leans against the cliff just here.

Something Steep 10m 19
Start: 4m right of the block (7m right of SoG).
A vegetated start leads to excellent steep jamming up the corner crack.

Gothic Horror 12m 20 Start: In a small corner below the right hand edge of a big cave (about 12m left of a prominent, grotty corner crack). Up the corner (BR) and over roof to cave (BR). Up the right hand edge of the cave and the slab above (BR).	Watergate 12m 23 Start: 3m right of GH, below a vague orange corner. Up the corner for 2m then left to a ledge (BRs). Up steep wall, over roof and up delicate groove (3 BRs).
White House 12m 23 Start: As for W. Up W for 2m then right (BR) and up over roof. Up wall to small cave (BRs), then either finish up W or traverse right to the chain on RFB.	Rapid Fat Boys 10m 25 Start: 3m right of WH. Up flake (BRs) to roof (BR). Continue up wall (2 FHs) to cave and chain lower off.
The American Way 12m 21 Start: 4m right of RFB (2m left of the grotty corner). Blast straight up the pumpy wall, passing 7 BRs and a FH.

Traction in Action 9m 24 Start: Marked "M". Up for 2m, then step left and up (3 BRs) to belay (tree).	Mesopotamia 10m 21 Start: As for TiA. Straight up (BR) then up and right to little cave (BR). Continue up and right (BRs) then back left to belay (tree).
Greg Moore's Dog 12m 22 Start: 2m right of M. Up the steep sustained corner.	Greg Moore's Dog Direct Start 4m 21 Start: 2m right of GMD. Up the tenuous corner (BR).
Rushmore 15m 26 Start: 2m right of GMDDS, below steep little wall. Steep, pumpy and sustained. Stick clip first BR, the head up and right through roof, left over bulge and up to top. 7 BRs in total (2nd is dodgy).	UK Boltfest 25m 24M1 Start: 6m right of R. Batman to first FH, then up short corner. Move left and over a roof to a stance, then continue up and right across wall. 9 BRs in total.
Led Zep 78 20m 26 Start: 4m right of UKB. Excellent climbing up the increasingly steep wall (8 BRs).	Snatch of Glory 17m 22 Start: 5m right of LZ78. Follow the line of BRs up a vague weakness.