Home > The Guide > Hawkesbury River > Joll's Bridge
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Home > The Guide > Hawkesbury River > Joll's Bridge |
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A big thank you to Paul Riviere and friends for making this information available to the Sydney Rockclimbing Club. One of the most extensive crags in the Sydney region, and also one of the best kept secrets. It seems everyone knew about Joll's Bridge, but not many people had actually climbed there! To get to the crag, drive north on the Sydney to Newcastle expressway, cross the Hawkesbury River bridge and take the exit onto the old Pacific Highway. While Joll's Bridge itself is located on the freeway about 2kms further up the hill (and the crag another 200m or so past that), parking is no longer available beside the freeway. Follow the old Pacific Highway as it winds up the hill, until you reach Cheerio Pt. Park here then walk up and under Joll's Bridge to the western side of the freeway, and follow it till you see a fence starting on a sandstone buttress to the left. Scramble down here then head 50m north to find Absolute Honey. You are now at the southern extremity of a broken cliff line which runs north towards the prominent grey sandstone wall originally described by Phil Stallard in the Wondabyne Climbers Club Guide (1981) as "The Vines". At its base on a mudflat lies the rusting remains of HMAS Parramatta. Development commenced here in October 1992 when climbers from Gosford and Sydney caught each other sniffing about with the prospect of bagging some prime lines. This encounter gave rise to the naming of one of the many routes "Sniffing Dogs". 10 years later there are over 130 climbs to flap about on, with everything from traditional numbers with mixed natural protection to sport routes. Please treat this area with care - as you can probably imagine, because of its handy locale to the big smoke it could become quite popular and well worn. So please stay on the tracks already in place (they'll take you everywhere you'll want to go). Also apart from directly below the old car park (where all the crap ends up that washes off the freeway), the base of the crag is pretty well free of rubbish, so pack out what you pack in so one of the most beautiful spots to climb will stay as it was found. Last thing - the routes here have been geared up adequately so any retro bolts appearing on established lines will be chopped pronto, no questions asked. Note that the western edge of the crag may be located within Popran National Park (where a permit must be obtained prior to climbing). Routes are described right to left, facing the cliff. |
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Absolute Honey 13m 20
Start: 20m left of descent squeeze.
A delicate grunt up a slightly overhanging wall. Thin flake to roof, hang off edge of cave to place #1 and #2 friend in horizontal, now up wall passing 2 BRs. It's possible to get a #2.5 friend in on left near top.
Andrew Powell, Linda Leman 01/03/1993
Start: 1.5m left of AH.
Up to a friend break, then pass 2 BRs, and follow the swerving orange streak past some nice moves to another BR and friends to finish.
Ross Linsley, Paul Riviere 02/1993
Start: 3.5m left of RLYHD.
Fun work out with fingery crux. Up easy ground to cave, now swing on up passing small friends to a BR, onward over hanging blocks #3.5 friend. And up wall passing second BR to top.
Ross Linsley, Andrew Powell, Paul Riviere 14/06/1993
Start: At flake in chossy roof.
Out flake then up past a series of overlaps past BR and a #0.5 friend to a tree belay on top.
John Wilde 01/1993
King Kong 15m 16
Start: 2m left of WT.
Pump up those beginners. Reach your way up through blocks, round top and up, passing small tree to top.
Nat Nichols, Susie 02/1993
Start: 3m left of KK.
Yet another gem that doesn't let up till you haul through the final bulge. Boulder up past friend to BR, grunt over bulge up to orange wall. Finger your way through this (2 BRs) to overhang and #2 friend placement. Now get out there and finish that "gorr dam job" passing BR/FH. Belay off tree behind block.
Phill Stallard, Andrew Powell 24/07/1993
Natie Head
8m 17
Start: 3m left of HGSA.
Slink your way up nose/flake passing two BRs to tree.
Nat Nichols 02/1993
Start: 2m left of NH.
A snacky little pump that winds its way up some beautiful orange rock. Out past #3.5 friend placement then to BR, back right above overlap #0.75 and #2 friend. Across to flake, up this to horizontal small friend placements, then to top via small flake.
Andrew Powell, Tim Maroney 14/02/1993
Start: 2m left of BLS.
Straight up the middle of the wall past 3 FHs to the large tree and ledge. Be gentle with the small pedestal hold just above the last FH. Small friends protect at halfway overlap. Pumpy!
Paul Riviere 01/1994
Chocolate Coated Parents 12m 16
Start: 4m left of CBC.
Tricky open book corner with some nice bridging. This climb holds pride of place in being the first line to fall in this guide. Large friends and hexes for protection.
Phill Stallard, Andrew Powell 21/11/1992
Start: 1m left of CCP.
Move up the flake past 2 BRs and tackle an amusing crux. Friends at the big horizontal break then trend left up easier ground to the top, 1 more BR.
Ross Linsley, Paul Riviere 05/1993
Start: Just left of FaB, below stunning black wall.
Balance up wall passing 2 BRs and #1.5 friend. At second BR dip right and up to horizontal, easing ground with friends and bomber wire to protect final moves.
Andrew Powell, Phill Stallard 17/01/1993
Start: Down and left of boulder.
Great positions up inviting crack. Up to ledge and BR, swing out and lay up crack to horizontal #3 friend. Then up and out to crack passing BR to top. Don't jerk around with the final blocks or you might get a nasty surprise!
Andrew Powell, Tim (Rainman) Maroney 21/02/1993
Start: At yellow wall belowTBTW.
Up yellow wall to join TBTW. 3 BRs, wires and friends.
John Wilde, Daniel Wilde 25/09/1994
Start: 10m left of S.
Let your fingers do the crying, a climb to cry for! Up corner to ledge passing a BR, then a #0.75 friend. Don't just stand there! Clip BR and off out rught, another BR and #1 friend. "So simple", now push it straight up from here passing FH and friends to top.
Andrew Powell
Start: As for SYM.
Very pleasant variant to SYM. Up SYM till you hit the second BR, from here head north young thang, passing BR, small friends and wires to top.
Andrew Powell, Phill Stallard
Start: As for SYM.
Excellent orange air master. Take open corner to ever steepening country, 2 BRs, then pump it up out past another BR and friend to get on tip of grey jutting block. Wires and #3 friend protect corner and final moves off right to finish.
Phill Stallard, Mickie, Andrew Powell 17/01/1993
I'll Ask Her 20m 16
Start: 0.5m left of T.
A nice bit of air on the traverse. Slab your way up shallow corner passing BR and on to second BR of T, make another move then swing left to ledge to finish up corner behind.
Nat Nichols, Susie 03/1993
I Wanna Be The Table 12m 18
Start: 3m left of IAH.
Some thin reachy slab work. Slip on up to #4 friend placement then levitate up thin slab, BR, to ledge and straight up to top (watch your pro).
Phil Stallard, Ivan Baker, Andrew Powell 29/05/1993
Humping The Table 12m 17
Start: 1m left of IWBTT.
Nice slabby arete. Move up through some balance moves (2 BRs) into blank corner to ledge, then blunt arete to top #2 and #0.5 friends.
Andrew Powell, Phil Stallard 29/05/1993
Next 3 climbs are located on the small upper cliff-line, on a big platform up left of Texas. Access is easiest from the top. Locate the cave/overhang 50m south of the end of the carpark. Walk around to the left (facing out from the cliff) until you find short overhang and wall. If you are already at the bottom, climb IAH and climbs are 5m to the left starting with "Moe".
Moe 6m 21
Start: At right hand end of wall.
One high bolt to clip then small friends in horizontal break at 4m. Top is loose and requires care. Belay off concrete bollard.
Paul Riviere 02/1993
Start: 2m left of M, at weakness.
One BR and a #3 friend in horizontal break at 6m.
Paul Riviere 02/1993
Start: At obvious overhanging corner.
Beautiful rock. A bolt to start, then a fixed hanger and if you are still worried a #3 friend will soothe the nerves.
Paul Riviere 02/1993
Back down to the base of the lower cliff.
Start: 10m left of HTT, at left end of overhang.
Locate the double bolt belay situated up on a ledge in the back of the overhang. Traverse left past 2 BRs then pull through the roof up into a crack on the wall which takes you to the top. 3 BRs. #2.5 friend and wires.
Andrew Powell, Phil Stallard 03/01/1994
Start: 10m left of large overhang at short corner.
Beautiful wall climbing up great rock. Up to break on wall next to ferny ledge, through overlap to horizontal #1.5 and #3 friends. Out and up right to BR via ramp then straight to finish on left side of block (small friend near top).
Andrew Powell, Paul Riviere 10/01/1993
Start: As for TT.
Fine face work on ironstone blades. Up corner through small overlap then slightly left to top passing 2 BRs and #2 friend.
Andrew Powell, Tim Maroney 14/02/1993
Plato Makes My Head Hurt 18m 17
Start: As for TT.
Blast up corner to top. Belay off small friends.
Phil Stallard, Micky, Carl 03/01/1993
Start: On ledge 1m left of corner crack.
Short wall with 3 BR. Straight up wall past some dubious rock to the cave. Nice mantle to finish. Friends handy above top BR. Belay with friends in the cave.
Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 02/1993
Start: 1.5m left of FOW at diagonal seam / weakness.
Trend L up the cracks to finish at L end of cave.
Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 02/1993
Oysterland 15m 21
Start: 1m left of RR.
Up, staying just right of arete, then the wall/slab on left side of cave to another BR and finish on top. 2 BRs and friends.
Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 01/1993
Back to ground level.
Eat More Oysters 25m 22
Start: 5m left of corner up the slab.
The short open book corner with a U bolt at 3m.
P1. 15m (17) Up the short crack and onto slab protected by friends. Belay at the tree below arete.
P2. 10m (22) Clip the BR on Oysterland then the U bolt on arete. Onto face with friends to protect.
Paul Riviere, Saxon Johns 01/01/1995
The Big Lick 25m 21
Start: At the corner/arete 3m left of oysterland.
Back at ground level a convenient bit of landscaping avoids getting your feet wet.
P1. 15m Two BRs up a left facing corner lead the way to a large bridge of rock. Mount this and gently walk left. Easily up left side of the short orange wall (BR), onto the big (wet) ledge. Double bolt belay.
P2. 10m (Aid if wet) onto white block (good friend placements just above), and up into the corner until you are forced right onto and around the arete. Chain belay in alcove. 6 BRs and a rack of friends.
Paul Riviere, Darren Grey, Matthew Arnott 29/04/1994
Under My Tongue 10m 22
Start: At TBL P1.
Variant 2nd pitch for TBL. From below move right under roof with bomber friends, then up face past a U bolt. Friends protect the remainder of the climb. Chain belay as for TBL.
Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 14/01/1995
Start: 4m left of TBL, directly below large angophora.
The first of two fine, short cracks which finish in the alcove below the cave. Don't be put off by the seepage on the lower section of these two climbs - they are definitely worth the effort. 3 RBs to rap anchor in alcove.
Paul Riviere, Simon Atkins 24/06/1994
Start: 3m left of PL.
Another gem! One BR and two FHs to rap anchor in alcove.
Paul Riviere 26/02/1995
The next two climbs start from the cave/overhang atop the previous climbs. Best accessed by doing first easy section of TBL and then walk left under the large orange overhang.
Start: At base of overhanging nose of orange rock.
Up the short crack (#0.75 friend keeps the rope out of your way), clip the first RB then through the overhang. The next two chain runners are attempts to remedy two problematic clips. After chains traverse right along lip passing 3 more RBs and finish just below the manky roof at rap station.
Paul Riviere 11/12/1994
Start: 8m left of MitS at left end of cave (2 BBs).
Move right across the overlaps up into the corner then further right across the yellow hanging wall, out to the lip and up to rappel station. 1 FH and 6 RBs.
Paul Riviere, David Russell 20/11/1994
Back to ground level.
Vulgar Direct
Start: Approx 40m left of TT.
Straight up to top, passing 12 BRs.
Mike Law 07/1993
Start: Just left of VD.
Bloody classic with some nice exposure.
P1. 20m (19) Diagonally up left to edge of cave, then up and back right through fine moves to airy belay on edge of hanging pedestal. Friends.
P2. 10m (17) Specky traverse past BR then up shallow corner and cut and up edge to tree.
P3. 10m (14) Up black fin trending left to top.
Andrew Powell, Phil Stallard 26/12/1993
Start: At P1 of HiL.
Start across traverse then up and out into hanging crack/flake, up this to top passing 1 BR. Care needed with block just before top.
Andrew Powell John Cadogan 02/07/1994
Start: 3m left of HiL.
Quality all the way on superb rock.
P1. 30m (22) Slip up little slab #3.5 friend and BR to horizontal then up over small roof (good pro) to orange corner and up to next roof. Yeeha! Reach out blindly to clip FH, now swing on out and up trending right (#4 and #0.5 friend) to easy but airy ground (wires and #3 friend) to belay off tree in cave.
P2. 10m Short exit up final moves of NBH (BR).
Andrew Poweil, Paul Riviere 21/03/1993
Wheelie Big Fish 35m 19
Start: 2m left of BJ.
P1. (19) Reachy boulder moves to start and up wall passing BR to tree belay on second ledge next to orange wall.
P2. (19) Up corner behind tree to hairy, desperate traverse off right to finish.
Phil Stallard, Micky 02/1993
Whairy Fin Fish 9m 19
Start: At 1st belay of WBF.
A gripping little variant finish to WBF. Slip on up orange wall passing BR and #00, #1, #3 and #0.5 friends to roofs. Clip BR on lip and mantle up, out and over like a tuna.
Andrew Powell, Milton Sams 02/05/1993
Start: As for WBF.
Whole lotta air out there. Up WBF for 10m passing BR to first ledge and small tree. Now out onto right wall just inside arete (wires and friends) and up to final BR on airy bulge.
Andrew Powell, Tim Maroney, Phil Stallard 31/03/1993
Woodface
Start: 4m left of WBF.
Beautiful open face climbing.
P1. Bumble up 4m to start under a FH. Now up flake (BR) then trend out left passing #2 friend to BR and #3 friend. Just above this traverse right to blunt arete (#1 friend). Cruise on up trending left passing last BR to top. Chain belay.
P2. Shoot up rounded arete with 2 BRs and small friends.
Andrew Powell, Tim Maroney 26/12/1993
Start: As for W.
Instead of trending left after the flake croooooze straight up the arete to join the bolt on the original route.
Ross had inadvertently climbed this arete assuming that it was Woodface's natural line. 2 empty bolt holes attested to Andrew's plan to straighten out his original wandering line. He returned next day, unaware of Ross's exploits, to place the two bolts.
Ross Linsley, Paul Riviere 30/10/1994
Start: 2m left of W, on a ledge 2m above the ground.
P1. 28m (25/26) Follow the line of fixed hangers up the steep wall (carry a bolt bracket for carrot at midheight). Chain belay on large ledge just below the roof.
P2. 7m (13) The flake which runs left to right along the lip of the roof and finishes up a short open book corner.
Paul Riviere 16/10/1994
Tum Fun 30m 21
Start: 3m left of HT, on vegetated ledge.
Up.
Andrew Powell, Phill Stallard
Start: 30m left of HT at the large, hollow spear of rock.
Follow the line of U bolts through the manky section, then trend steeply left, past short yellow arete. Move back right to small ledge and finish up pocketed headwall. The rock improves dramatically after the first 3m. 12 U bolts in total.
Paul Riviere 29/05/1994
Start: As for SoaG.
Up through roof to awkward mantle at 4th U bolt. Finish up delightful white polished bulge. 12 U bolts in total.
Paul Riviere 01/01/1995
The Damp Wagon 12m 16
Start: 10m left of SoaG.
Up blunt arete (small friends) to ledge, then up corner to exit right. Flaky finish at top.
Andrew Powell, Phill Stallard 08/05/1993
Start: As for tDW.
Short but very sweet. Head left (small friends and wires) to small cave. Swing up around left end of cave to finish.
Andrew Powell, Phill Stallard 24/07/1993
Start: 4m left of PSLD.
A very pleasant outing. A couple of moves up corner (#1.5 friend, wire) then right passing BR to crack (#2, #3.5 friends). Continue right (#1 friend).
Andrew Powell, Phill Stallard 18/07/1993
Pig in a Wig 13m 17
Start: As for SOS.
Corner to block on right.
Carl Power, Ivan Baker 1993
Gold Possum Wall
Be Still My Beating Possum 18m 18
Start: 6m left of PiaW.
Great line pushing through the red centre. Be careful with small furry friends. Start up slab to ledge, then up orange wall (friends, wires) to finish on small ledge. Exit carefully right.
Phill Stallard, Philippe, Ivan Baker 12/07/1993
Start: At orange wall left of BSmBP.
Up orange wall past BRs to small alcove. Crux is headwall above. Rap anchor. 2BRs and 3FHs in total.
Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 04/11/1993
Start: At corner below R.
It'll scare you but worth the adventure. Up the superb flake 5m left of R (friend, wires). Finishes atop the precarious block at belay station.
Ross Linsley, Bruce Wells, Paul Riviere 16/11/1993
Start: As for 666TB.
Up 666TB for 3m then move left into the seam. Follow this (full set of friends and #4 WC rock) to belay as for 666TB.
Ross Linsley, Nigel Kennedy, Paul Riviere 21/05/1994
30m 19
Start: Left of 666NotB at thin crack.
Steep, airy and scary, violent crumble for the masses.
P1. 6m Up thin crack (2 BRs) to gum belay.
P2. 24m (19) Up wall behind tree, rightwards and up overhung arete and wall above (9 BRs).
Mike Law, Paul Riviere 07/1993
Frontline 10m 22
Start: 3m left of CC.
A short wall with an undercut start. One BR, a U bolt and a #1.5 friend to a tree belay.
Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 19/10/1994
Cornered 10m 18
Start: 2m left of F.
Up short corner, capped by roof (1 BR, 1 U bolt and a #2.5 friend). Awkward belay from the tree.
Paul Riviera, Ross Linsley 19/10/1994
Start: Below buckety black wall left of C.
3 RBs and rap anchor (3rd RB hard to clip).
Paul Riviere 05/11/1994
Start: 2m left of BD.
Up past 3 RBs to finish up smooth slab. Double BB belay.
Paul Riviere 05/03/1994
Start: 1.5m left of BF.
Up the little corner then as for BB.
Paul Riviere 29/01/1993
The following climbs start 10m off the ground on a large ledge system at the base of the upper wall.
O 25m 14
Start: From big ledge, scramble up gully and right onto ledge below steep wall.
P1. 19m (14) Straight up wall to below roof then escape left. Up and around right to belay on big ledge.
P2. 6m Up small corner to top.
Phil Stallard, Ivan Baker, Kathy Merz 06/1993
The Sports Wall
Trotsky's Nipples 12m 18
Start: Up and left of O, at far right hand end of Sports Wall (at corner with black right hand wall).
Up black wall then up arete above (friends).
Phil Stallard, Andrew Powell 10/1993
Triangle 10m 11
Start: As for TN.
Up as for TN, then move left into corner at top.
Phil Stallard. Ivan Baker 06/1993
Start: 3m left of T.
Grunt of a finish! Head up and left to first BR, now pull hard on jugs to good friend placement in horizontal. Mantel onto small ledge above, get a wire in flake under roof before clipping first of the U-bolts. Now the fun starts, finish off head wall passing another U-bolt and #3 friend (feelin' kinda rooted!).
Andrew Powell
Start: As for FKS.
From one extreme to another. Grope your way up jug-fest passing BR (shared with FKS) and friends to right side of jutting block on ledge (BR just above). Uneasy moves up on to slab using block. Exit left up slab #1, #0.75 friends.
Andrew Powell, Phil Stallard 12/09/1993
Start: 2m left of MLJ.
A short pump's a good pump. Up gently overhung wall passing 2 BRs. After second, trend right (#1, #3 and #1 friends) to top.
Andrew Powell, Phil Stallard 12/09/1993
Marxist Breakfast 10m 17
Start: 1m left of SA.
Climbs the right hand side of the large cave. Straight up, passing 1 BR and #2, #3 friends to ledge.
Phil Stallard, Andrew Powell 30/08/1993
Start: 10m left of MB.
It'll hump and pump and blow your arms away. Clip first BR then swing out and up on user friendly holds passing 3 more BRs to rap anchor.
Andrew Powell, Phil Stallard 26/09/1993
Start: 2m left of OSP at unusual extrusion in back of cave.
Set a belay with a #3 friend, then move up and right to RB. Continue around roof to two more RBs, finishing at a small broken angophora. Rap anchor as for OSP.
Paul Riviere 11/09/1994
Start: At 1st orange stain on wall left of cave.
One BR and 2 RBs plus rack of friends for upper section. Tree belay.
Paul Riviere 26/02/1995
Start: Below left hand vertical orange streak.
Great moves down low then eases after 2nd RB. 3rd RB and friend to top.
Paul Riviere 06/1993
Start: Below diagonal ramp left of GS.
Up ramp past BR to some friend placements. Traverse right 2m to the short corner. BR above this. Proceed up (friends) to tree belay.
Paul Riviere 04/1993
Start: 5m left of STH.
Problematic start. Thin moves past ironstone flakes on a steep face passing fixed hanger, friend break. Now run it out moving L and up to next horizontal friends to protect. Tree belay.
Paul Riviere 03/1993
Start: 20m left of RE.
Taste the pump! Straight up wall just beside cave, passing 5 BRs plus #2.5, #1, #3.5 and #1 friends. Tree belay. Enjoy!
Andrew Powell, Paul Riviere 07/08/1994
Ten Pin Gully
To get to this gully from the top, take the well worn track heading north from the back of the car park, and Ten Pin Gully will be reached after about 5 minutes walk. With a bit of ferreting about at the base, the descent gully can be found about 40m left of the Sports Wall .
To locate the following climbs walk north along the base of the cliff.
Short Black
Start: At the bottom of the first drop of Ten Pin Gully.
A crimp fest requiring care when clipping the second piece of gear (the ground could come up and bite you!). 1 BR and #3, #3.5 friends, then run it out to the top.
Square 15m 13
Start: At obvious wide crack splitting the wall before Crack 'n' Up Wall.
As the name Implies, except maybe sharper. Straight up crack and veer L and up wall to top.
Phil Stallard, Ivan Baker, Kathy 06/1993
Huge Carpet Sale 15m 19
Start: 3m left of S.
A plus for the Box, steep slab work. Over little bulge and up fine edged section passing 2 BRs. Trend slightly right through horizontals, friends to small vertical crack and on to top. Tree belay.
Phill Stallard, Philippe, Andrew Powell 27/03/1994
Start: 2m left of HCS.
Steeper, sharper neighbour. Up edges passing 2 BRs and on, keeping to the right of jutting block on the way to top. #4, #3.5 and #0.5 friends handy. Belay as for HCS.
Andrew Powell, Phil Stallard 27/03/1994
Not A Pretty Face 10m 19
Start: Below the left arete of the buttress.
2 BRs and a #0.5 friend. Take a few smaller friends for the belay.
Paul Riviere, Andrew Powell 19/06/1994
Crack 'n' Up Wall
Start: 2m left of the chimney.
Sequential moves on a vertical wall. Up to flake at 5m. Then slap to good ledge. Continue up past easier ground to the cave (bolt belay). 4 FHs and #0.5 friend. Somewhat harder since a cruxy undercling at 3m snapped.
Paul Riviere 04/1993
The Hawkesbury Desideratum) 16m 25
Start: As for THC.
From the 4th FH on THC, move leftwards past 2 more FHs to double U bolt belay.
Paul Riviere 07/08/1994
Start: 5m left of THC at attractive crack.
Up crack and traverse left at top onto ledge. Continue up a short crack system before moving back right on to the face passing 2 BR. Tree belay. 3 BRs, friends and wires.
Paul Riviere, John Wilde 04/1993
Start: 7m left of CnU, at crack behind 2 black boys.
Climb the crack up to and move right to climb another short crack. Continue straight up passing a BR to a large ledge. Climb the corner crack and move right onto the face with a BR to protect. Tree belay 3 BRs, friends and wires.
Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 08/1993
I'd Rather Be Fishing 30m 19
Start: 5m left of T at corner.
Up right facing corner past 2 BRs and a #3 friend to alcove. Pull up through centre of roof onto another ledge next to small but solid angophora tree (sling). Straight up wall past another 3 BRs and friends.
Paul Riviere, Bruce Wells, Ross Linsley 16/11/1993
Start: 3m left of IRbF at crack.
Up crack to alcove at 4m. Continue straight up past 3 BRs onto a big ledge and another BR. Move up into short corner then slightly right to finish in small cave. Tree belay. 4 BRs, friends and wires.
Paul Riviere, Jeff Conley 05/03/1994
Start: 0.5m left of FHS.
Just thin for starters. Crimp your way up left to BR, then crooze up to ledge taking middle crack with mixed gear and 2 more BRs. Finish up final wall of AF to tree belay.
Andrew Powell, Ashley Mackevicius 09/06/1997
Start: Below thin wall left of SoE.
Hard start followed by some dicey holds (BR) above the horizontal break. Continue straight up past easier country using mixed gear. Tree belay.
Ross Linsley 07/08/1994
Start: At shallow corner left of AF.
Up the shallow corner to a BR, then straight up the wall/slab passing 2 FHs. Chain belay.
Paul Riviere. Ross Linsley 27/11/1993
Start: 4m left of HoR at vertical crack.
Up the crack for 10m, then move up right to a ledge and pad it up (BR). Rack of friends and nuts. Shares chain belay with HoR.
Paul Riviere. Ross Linsley 27/11/1993
Chips And Chicken Salt 15m 22
Start: The left most climb on Crack 'n' Up Wall.
6 U bolts plus a few medium friends will bring you safely to a rap anchor.
Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 17/06/1995
Billy's Buttress
The next climbs are located down at the left hand end of Crack 'n' Up wall. Bumble up to recessed area below striking L facing orange corner.
Start: At arete.
Mixed gear with 2 BRs at the top.
Phil Stallard, Andrew Powell 08/08/1993
Start: At the base of the corner.
Not all things get hard, but some do! Throw a large nut into the crack on the wall and away you go! Blast up the middle of the wall (#3 friend) to BR, then to crack (#4 friend). Hang out to the right and grab the arete and up this (2 BRs) to a small ledge. Clip one last BR and finish.
Andrew Powell, Philippe, Phil Stallard 22/08/1993
Start: As for MWM.
Bill and Ben had to do a lot of bucket and spade work to unearth this class line. Straight up corner to small roof then traverse out right with air and care of hollow sounding flake, and up to a small stance. Now up and out left to top through some loose country.
Phil Stallard , Andrew Powell 01/08/1993
Start: 5m left of P.
Just bloody great. Slink up the black wall (runout) till you hit the orange (microcam essential). Traverse right a metre or so (hard) and up to small roof (great friends and wires on this section). Grab a magic under cling, clip the FH and head up final wall passing #4 friend, BR and #2 friend to top.
Andrew Powell, Phil Stallard, Paul Riviere 14/08/1993
Start: 25m left of LLL, up and over the rise.
Crimp your way up compact wall on user friendly holds (NOT!), passing 2 BRs to horizontal break (#3 friend). Now up to hole and over bulge (BR) on high crimps.
Andrew Powell. Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 09/10/1994
Wall of Thighs
An excellent little wall.
From the car park, follow the fence line atop the cliff north for approximately 250m, then cross the fence and move towards the cliff. The Wall of Thighs is an upper tier cliff.
From the bottom, these ten climbs are located about 50m up the slope behind Phvvvit (the orange corner on Billy's Buttress).
Start: Right most line on the wall.
Not a straight forward little grunt. After first BR traverse right and up to big hole, then back L to second BR, now fire straight up from here passing two more BRs.
Andrew Powell, Paul Riviere 12/02/1995
Start: Below orange streak between SKB and PG.
Follow the streak past 5 U bolts.
Paul Riviere
Piggy Grunter 12m 18
Start: 4m left of SKB.
Chalk up the trotters and oink. A #11 hex comes in handy and it can be climbed without getting inside.
Andrew Powell 1994
Heaven and Hell
Start: 2m left of PG.
Up the middle of the wall past some poor rock at half height. Pad up a slab to finish at rap anchor. 7 U bolts.
Paul Riviere 12/11/1995
The Seventh Wave 15m 25
Start: 4m left of HaH at corner.
Up corner for 3m then move right across the pockets onto the face and up past 5 U bolts. Rap anchor as for HaH.
Paul Riviere
Benny Hill's Buttocks 15m 17
Start: As for tSW.
Straight up corner / crack trending off to the right and up final head wall for a last bit of slap and tickle!
Phil Stallard, Ivan Baker 06/02/1994
The Link Experience
Start: 5m left of BHB.
Up wall to the overhanging crack to finish. 7 U bolts to rap anchor.
Paul Riviere 13/07/1995
Burning Sensation 11m 20
Start: As for tLE.
You should always leave a little something for the end. Kick off as for tLE, puff up over block and move left to crack (#1.5 friend). One move up (#3.5 friend) then slip back to the left (BR). Straight up from this, passing #0.75 friend and BR to top out on right side of tree on edge.
Andrew Powell, Phill Stallard 06/02/1994
Hey, Where's That Cream? 11m 19
Start: As for BS.
Something smooth close at hand. Up BS till you hit the first BR, now slip out to your left across a little slab (BR) and up corner (#0.5 friend).
Andrew Powell 08/07/1994
Short Arrs 6m 17
Start: 10m left of BS at corner.
Damn shame it's not a lot longer. Up the corner.
Andrew Powell, John Cadogan 07/03/1994
The Hall of Horrors
Walk 150m left along the ledge system running from the left end of the Wall Of Thighs to get to this area.
The Hall of Horrors is a 10m high, overhanging sport area with potential for some hard shorties.
Scarface
Start: At the diagonal overhanging rise.
Traverse in from right to left then straight up to the undercling and anchor.
Paul Piviere
(Project) 6m 24
Start: Below the ramp / arete rising up to the right.
5 U bolts (may just be holes).
Projectile Fear 6m 21
Start: Just right of the bulging prow.
Up the prow following the RBs. Lower off final RB at roof.
Paul Riviere, Andrew Powell 04/06/1995
The Basement Wall
This slabby, compact, 20m high wall is located directly below the Hall of Horrors. It is also located on the same level as the Crack 'n' Up wall and can be reached from there by walking left for about 140m.
All of the climbs here start off a ledge about 5m above off the main level. Gain this ledge at its southern end via a step-up under a small cave.
Full Body Fluff 12m 16
Start: Above the step-up.
Nice warm up to Basement Wall. Climb steepening slab on edge of cave to small corner, clip BR and finish it off.
Andrew Powell, Tim Maroney 13/08/1995
Start: 10m left of FBF.
A little grubby in the middle, but still worth the effort. Up 4m to #1 friend. Over small overlap (#4 friend) then on to a perfect #3.5 friend hole. Continue up and right to the base of vertical crack (#0.75 friend) and up this (wires). Move left 1m to swing out to clip BR and finish up thin slab moves. Belay/rap anchor at stance.
Andrew Powell John Codogen 19/11/1995
Start: 4m left of D9L.
Great moves on great rock. Thin climbing for 4m to first pro (#2 friend). Onward passing small pro (#0.5, #0.75 friends) just under lip of small black wall. Up this (2 BRs) and continue up small flake (small wires) to horizontal (#3 friend) and swing up right to top. Belay/rap anchor on stance.
Andrew Powell, John Cadogen 09/11/1995
Start: 5m left of HBL next to grass tree.
Kick in the end of this one. Up wall with pockets (range of friends) to horn (sling this). On to small ledge (#0.75 friend), now some fingery moves up clean orange rock passing 2 BRs to top. Belay/rap anchor on stance.
Andrew Powell, Tim Maroney 13/08/1995
Start: 10m up and left of HB.
Full rack of friends plus 2 U bolts will get you to the top this wee pump. Belay off the angophora tree with its root curling over the cliff edge.
Paul Riviere, Andrew Powell 28/07/1995
Uncle Clouse 17m 19
Start: 12m left of CS.
A nice bouldery pocketed start. Up 4m to first pro (#1, #2 friends). Grunt through bulge then up easier wall with wide range of friends and a medium hex. Good climbing finishes at tree (clean rap from here).
Andrew Powell
Bondi 17m 15
Start: 8m left of UC at broken orange wall beneath cave.
More sand than Bondi (at least at the start). Up edge to horizontal edge, move right to clean rock and mantel. Good rock begins. Up corner and flake system behind tree to top. Belay off tree located up the hill a bit.
Tim Maroney. Andrew Powell 01/09/1997
Start: 4m left of B.
Pump start - slab finish. Up to first BR, then snap for the next couple of jugs and bomb proof #3 or #2.5 friend placement. On to second BR on lip then up slab (3rd and final BR) to belay tree atop block.
Andrew Powell
Start: 8m left of tBUtS.
The bottom and the very top gives this one its grade. Up flake veering right slightly to get on top of big block (good #0.75 friend in horizontal). Another move or two gets you to some more holes and a bomber #1.5 friend placement. Balance your way up a bit left to the first BR (crux). Cruise up easy slab (BR) to final stiff moves (BR). Grunt over the little roof to finish at good belay tree.
Andrew Powell, Tim Maroney 27/08/1997
The Hollows
Size isn't everything, but in this case a bit more sure would be nice. Still, this is a nice little set of slabs of about 11m. It can be found tucked away 30m directly down hill from HB (on Basement Wall).
Nobody Home 11m 15
Start: At lefthand side of base.
Pleasant climbing. Up the middle of the slab with adequate pro.
Andrew Powell (solo) 14/05/1996
Timbre 11m 15
Start: As for NH.
Very much the same as NH, but keeping to the left hand edge of the wall, through overlap and onto top. Once again not bad pro.
Andrew Powell (solo) 14/05/1996
Start: Left of slot opening at grey streak.
Nice moves on compact grey streak. Straight up streak (2 BRs) to bolt belay 3m back on block.
Andrew Powell. Tim Maroney, Paul Riviere 02/06/1996
Start: 0.5m left of GK.
Thin just thin, good though! Trend left up black rock on massive edges (3 BRs). Tree belay.
Glass Snout 10m 17
Start: 4m left of TS.
An easing slab. Pad up past BR, #1.5 friend and small wires. Tree belay.
Andrew Powell, Tim Maroney 02/06/1996
The Long White Roof
The highest section of cliff offering some of the best rock at Joll's. Best accessed by walking left along the base of the cliff from Crack 'n' Up and Basement Walls for about 280m. The 70m long roof with its polished white stone is reminiscent of Tjuringa Wall at Mt Arapiles.
Start: Just before the right hand end of the roof at short, overhanging wall.
Up the easy wall (2 U bolts) then an awkward move onto a sloping ledge. Up the orange stain (#1, #2 friends in the middle) then two RBs to the top. Tree belay.
Paul Riviere 04/1996
Start: 5m left of RnR.
Move up to roof and out R along flake heading for the overhanging arete.
Paul Riviere
Pass The Ladder
Start: 4m left of D.
Move left initially then right at 5m where a horizontal band hides a U bolt placed well back. Swing further right past huge pockets to the apex of the roof. Follow the line up the headwall to a large ledge with a tree. 7 U bolts in all.
Paul Riviere 05/1996
Start: Below the main break in the roof.
The Coast's answer to Stranger's EIiminate. Take a full rack of friends plus some wires.
P1. (24) 3 U bolts and a #3 friend bring you to a double BB anchor out left on a ledge.
P2. (22) Up into corner to get good rock and friend placements. Over the small bulge past 2 U bolts and it gets slabby until you reach a big ledge. Natural belay (wires and friends).
P3. (22) Move 5m right along the ledge, then up final steep section to find natural belay anchors in cave.
Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 23/07/1995
Start: 10m left of TAC.
Up the rib/flake to the roof, passing 3 U bolts and an expansion bolt originally used for aid. Hard moves through the roof (bomber #1.5 and #2 friends). 2 more U bolts bring you to a rap anchor.
Paul Riviere