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Crosslands

NOTE: Access to this crag is currently under threat! Please limit your impact.
 
Thanks to Julian Anderson for information on this crag.

Find Crosslands Rd, off Galston Rd. If coming from Hornsby go through the gorge and turn right at the top. Drive north to the end (about 6km), park just before the road winds down the hill to the Conference Centre, there is a sign here saying private road from this point, and no public access to river. The Conference Centre often have their rubbish bins here.

Step over logs and follow a fire trail north along the ridge top. Take the right hand trail after about 400m and follow it to the clifftop (about another 200m). Descent is possible at either end, but the end closer to the carpark is best.

All the routes probably need cleaning, most of them have only had one or two ascents, so grades may vary. Also there may still be some loose holds. All the fixed gear is glue-ins, and stainless. There is potential for some excellent routes here.

At the far end of the crag are two scrambles (about grade 5 or 6) with rings at the top. These were placed by groups who use the conference centre.

Be very discreet and minimise your impact while climbing here - this crag may be on private property.

Climbs described left to right, facing the cliff.

Pipsqueak 5m 13
Short crack from ledge on descent route.
Julian Anderson (solo) 1999

RecommendedRecommendedLife in the Bus Lane Sport 10m 23
Start: First route on main wall.
The start has become harder since a hold broke. Up flake line then right and up on pockets. 4 BRs to lower offs. An excellent route.
Julian Anderson 2001

Open Project #1 10m ??
Start: 6m right of LitBL.
Cleaned, top roped and drilled by Julian, but he never got around to equipping it.

Open Project #2 10m ??
Start: 2m right of OP1.
Cleaned, top roped and drilled by Julian, but he never got around to equipping it. 1 BR.

Short Corner 6m 6
Start: At short corner.
Up.
Stuart Preston (solo)

John West Reject 10m 10
Up blocks onto ledge, bouldery move then up slab.
Julian Anderson (solo) 1999

RecommendedSplit Enzo 10m 13
Start: At obvious crack.
Layback and jamb the crack. Good climbing, good gear.
Julian Andersen, Stuart Preston, Jim McMillan 2000

Youth Enhanced Sport 10m 21
Start: 1m right of SE.
4 BRs to tree.
Julian Anderson 2001

Age Impaired 15m 22?
Start: 10m right of YE.
Up shallow arete and corner past 2 BRs. Go left (crux) to mantle. #2.5 friend, then up small corner to ledge (BR). Up slab to tree.
Julian Anderson 2001

Exterior Expectations 15m 19
Start: 4m right of AI.
Onto ledge past BR, then left up slab past 3 more BRs to tree.
Julian Andersen, Jim McMillan 2000

Feral Fashions 15m 18
Start: As for EE.
At ledge go right and straight up wall past 4 or so BRs to BB.
Julian Anderson 2000

It's Only Natural 15m 12
Start: At chimney.
Up the chimney, and thrutch to glory. Take big gear.

The next routes are 10m right past big sandy cave.

Possum Hollow 12m 15
Up wall to RB, then onto ledge, go left and up wall to top. wires and cams.
Julian Andersen, Marcus Andersen 2000

Green With Envy 12m 14
Start: As for PH.
Right up shallow corner to top. Wires and cams.
Julian Andersen, Marcus Andersen 2000


This page was last updated Saturday, March 10, 2007.
Copyright © 2000-2007 Peter Monks