Home > The Guide > Sutherland > Bangor West (Main Area)

A very popular crag located high above the Woronora River. Although only quite short, there are many easy to mid grade routes here, and with top ropes so easy to set up, it's a great beginner's area.

The crag is also a popular bouldering spot, with particularly good bouldering on the undercut section underneath The Whorl and Dorothy May and also on the Killer's Kidneys wall.

To get to the main area, find Arunta Close, Bangor in your street directory and drive over there (forget public transport!). Park at the end of the close (being careful not to block any driveways) and wander down the fire trail between the houses at the end of the cul-de-sac. The main descent gully is about 10m to the right when you meet the fire trail. The second descent gully is about 30m further on to the right.

The crag tends to be very cold in winter, since it faces pretty much south and catches the wind that comes howling up the Woronora River.

Note: some time during early to mid 2002 someone decided to rebolt some of the routes here. While this is a worthwhile effort, please make sure you know what you're doing before you start replacing bolts! The accounts I've received suggest that the new bolts are poorly installed and may not be safe. Take care...

Climbs described right to left, facing the cliff.

The Whorl 13m 16 Start: At the far right hand end of the crag, in the trees. Marked. A bouldery start leads to interesting climbing up a nice wall (be careful of the bridge of rock at half height). 4 BRs to double BB belay.	Dorothy May 13m 16 Start: 1m left of TW. Quite similar to TW, but with a slightly more strenuous start. 3? BRs to belay as for TW.
Lean Too 12m 15 Start: The deep crack 1m left of DM. Up the crack.	A 12m ?? Start: On arete left of LT. Up past 4 new RBs.
B 12m 19/20 Start: 4m left of LT. 3 BRs to double bolt belay. Nasty rounded top out.

The main descent gully reaches the base of the crag here.

Rainman 6m 12 Start: The low angled face 2m left of the descent gully. Up the face with no pro.	NFM 8m 21? Start: Marked. 5m left of R (just past arete). Manky FH (take care!) and BR up high.
Killer's Kidneys 8m 21 Start: Marked "KK". 3m left of NFM. 3 BRs. H. Wallace 1992	Pyromaniac 7m 18/21 Start: 3m left of KK. 2 BRs, second looks manky. Direct start is 21.
Dynamic Winter 10m 20 Start: Marked. On right hand edge of bulging buttress left of P. A hard start, then continue up the arete, staying right of AB. Double BBs. H. Wallace 1992	Andrew's Bulge 11m 15 Start: Marked (often with a hand). 1m left of DW. Great fun! Steep jug hauling past 3 BRs. Double BB belay. The start is hard if you're short.
Get Tracked 10m 14 Start: 0.5m left of AB at crack. Up the crack. G. Quinn (solo) 1985	Side Tracked 10m 10 Start: 0.5m left of GT. Seam (small wires) with small thread at top.
Pitted Arete 10m 16 Start: As for ST. Up the crack then left up the right side of the rounded arete. Steve Turcsanyi 1987	Mars Apple 8m 16 (21?) Start: 1m left of PA. Marked T2. Desperate start. 1 BR. Steve Turcsanyi 1987
Zulu Trainer 10m 13 Start: 1m left of MA. Nice to the ledge then doddle to top. 2 BRs to double BB belay. Steve Turcsanyi 1987	Mike's Photogenic Crack 10m 12 Start: Corner crack left of ZT. Bouldery start then easy.
Sports Injury Clinic 10m 21 (23?) Start: 1m L of MPC. 3 manky BRs.

The climbs on the main wall get a bit confused from this point around to Python. My Girl and C are easy to locate (by the nice new bolts), but some of the others, who knows?

Tits and Bits 8m 19/21 Start: 1m left of SIC. 2 FHs. P. Farkas 07/1989	Christmas Nuts 10m 8 Start: 1m left of TaB. The grovelly dirty chimney.
Fixed Steps 10m 19 Start: The rounded arete 1m left of CN. Tenuous climbing past 3 manky BRs. Double BB belay. Steve Turcsanyi 1985

The following five climbs are on the huge block in front of the main wall.

Midway 8m 13 Start: On the left hand side of the boulder as you face it. Up the juggy wall (take care with pro).	Tilba Tilba 8m 6 Start: On the side of the boulder facing the main wall. Mantle then up. Easy but no pro.
Voodoo Traverse 15m 18 Start: As for TT. Traverse right to second corner (?), then up.	Death of a Black Boy 8m ?? Start: Marked. On right side of big block above massacred black boy. Jump start then natural gear (?). Double BB. H. Wallace 1992
The Three Sides Traverse 18m V3 / V4 Start: On the lefthand end of the downhill face. Traverse right following hand traverse line. Round corner and traverse uphill (crux). Round corner and traverse short low overhung section to finish in cave. Nick Clow 07/2003

Back to the main wall.

Go, Go, Gadget Arms 9m 22 Start: Marked GGG. 2m left of FS, on right hand side of blank wall. Thin and desperate moves up the wall. Top rope only. H. Wallace 1992	My Girl 10m 23 Start: 4m R of In Depth. A thin boulder problem with bolts. 2 RBs to tree belay. Trevor Cooper-Williams 14/01/1992
C 10m ?? Start: 1m left of MG. 3 manky BRs.	D 10m 20/21 Start: 1m left of C. 2 FHs to chain. Chris Wallace 1992
A Loving Hole 10m 20 Start: Marked. 1m left of D (0.25m right of ID). 2 manky BRs. Double BBs. H. Wallace 1992	Bangor Tiger 10m 19 Start: As for ALH. Traverse left and up. "How many micro routes can we squish in, tiger?" Glenn Short 1992
In Depth 10m 9 Start: Corner crack 0.25m left of ALH. Up the crack.	Arachnology for Kids Traverse 9m V4 / V5 Start: As for ID. Traverse right to finish at arete of 'Fixed Steps'. Nick says "This boulder problem is a corker. It took quite a while (maybe 5 or 6 trips) from initially conceiving it, dabbling and then working on it to finally finishing off. I was so pleased with the quality of it in the end because the key sequence is both technical and sustained in difficulty." Nick Clow 24/11/2003
Python Direct 10m 19+ Start: Just left of ID. 1 BR then runout to top.	Python 10m 16 Start: 1m L of PD. 2 FHs to double BB belay.
Grandma's Wheelchair 10m 16 Start: 4m left of P, on left hand side of cave. Up then right past a BR and cam placements to a double BB belay.	Get Walking 9m 14 Start: As for GW. Straight up. Steve Turcsanyi (solo) 1988
Skulduggery 9m 16 Start: 2m left of GW at cave. Up past manky BR then awkwardly over bulge. Easily to top.	End of the Decade 11m 20 Start: Below traverse line, 3m left of S. Groovy move to start, then out traverse line and up arete. 2 FHs and optional cam on low angled headwall. Double BBs.
Grotto Crack 9m 17 Start: Corner crack just left of EotD. Pleasant bridging up corner. 2 BRs out right (or large cams for the ethically minded!).	Buzz Boys Beat 9m 19 Start: 0.5m left of GC. Up bulgy blocks. Take cams. P. Farkas 1989
Zip 8m 16 Start: 4m left of BBB. Deceptive start, strenuous first clip (BR) then up easy wall past a 2nd BR. Double BB belay. G. Quinn 1986	Unzip 10m 17 Start: 2m left of Z under roof. Boulder right under roof then up as for Z.
Billabong 5m 18 Start: 5m left of U in middle of wall. Thin wall climbing past 1? BR. G. Quinn 1986

The second descent gully reaches the base of the cliff here.

Ali 5m 15 Start: The jam crack 2m left of the descent gully. Up the crack.	Slobbery Dog 6m 15 Start: Corner 6m left of A. Up the corner.
Rockclimber's Waltz 7m 12 Start: Marked. Up offwidth and (loose looking!) blocks. Two variants at top.	Head Butte 6m 16 Start: 4m left of RW. Ugly looking crack with reverse head jam.