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<text id="33" class="heading1">Other North Shore Crags</text>
<text class="indentedHeader" id="2">Blues Point:
A bouldering area at the southern end of Blues Point Rd in McMahon's Point. A lot of cut rock and sandiness that the awesome views and grassy landings almost make up for. Good traversing in the park then along the path and around the point to a few worthwhile up routes. Two problems are worthy of note: a short but perfect flake (V0) around in the second grassy area behind four straight trees; then "Schnibbers" (V4) starts at the low flake in behind the garden 30m west of the flake. It's a great route too, but the sidepull might fall off some time soon. Should still be good, just a lot harder. </text><text id="4" class="indentedHeader">Hunter's Hill:
A small bouldering area located at the northern end of Ferdinand St, Hunter's Hill. Park in Ferdinand St and walk down the steps until a 4m wall appears to the left. The (very overgrown) Slug Wall is located just left of this, while Grundy (a large cave just above the water) is about 150m to the right (best to walk along the waterfront). Neither area is much to write home about, although Grundy does offer some bouldering in the rain (it has quite a large roof). Probably only worth the effort if you're in the area.</text><text id="27" class="indentedHeader">Darnley Oval:
A great little bouldering area located just on the Eastern side of Darnley Oval, East Gordon. To get there, park at the end of Darnley St, walk directly across the oval, hop the fence and continue on for about 20m or so. The crag should become obvious. Mostly vertical problems on good rock. The crag also has good landings and there are a couple of overhangs for the frictionally challenged. Most of the problems require technique rather than strength however. Well worth a visit!</text><text id="5" class="indentedHeader">Blackman's Park:
An undeveloped bouldering area with some potential. Summer is probably the best time to visit, since the area is quite shady. A local bushcare group is actively cleaning up the area, so please minimise your impact on the bush. Access is via Lloyd Rees Drive in Lane Cove West. Drive right through the park to the turning circle at the end. 20m to your right in the bush is this quite impressive block. Worth bringing a torope for the sections which are high and/or have an uneven landing. The playing fields also have quite a bit of rock of interest along the escarpment, once you wander 15m up from the road. Needs a bit of cleaning and the landings are rarely flat. The Tennis Courts have quarried vertical faces. Not that memorable, but on the upside it has mostly flat grassy landings and is only 20m from the tennis courts. The southern extension of Blackman Park is called Lovetts Reserve. Park at the end of Penrose St and walk south (past the playground equipment) to get there.

</text><text id="6" class="indentedHeader">Tunks Park:
A small but good area offering technical, just off vertical problems with very thin edges and good landings. While there is more rock on the western side, it is usually pretty damp and unpleasant. The best rock and problems are on the short line of cliffs starting near the bench seats. To get there, park near the parking area for the boat ramp, just off Brothers Ave in Cammeray. Do NOT park in the boat ramp parking area itself - the local parking officers delight in ticketing people who park here but don't have a trailer. Please be careful with the garden plantings so that the council and residents don't get upset.</text><text id="8" class="indentedHeader">Sandy Bay:
A group of small boulders and caves just above Sandy Bay Drive in Clontarf. Covered in detail in the "Sydney Bouldering" guide. Quite good.</text><text id="9" class="indentedHeader">Washaway Cave, Clontarf:
A disappointing crag with epic access. Don't bother. If you're really desperate however, you can find it halfway down the cliff above Washaway Beach, Clontarf. Access is in from the eastern end of Cutler Rd.</text><text id="10" class="indentedHeader">Castle Rock:
There's some top rope bolts sticking out of the top of a small cliff face near Castle Rock Beach (in Balgowlah Heights). While the rock in the area looks OK, most of it is quite sandy and mossy. There's also a good boulder on Castle Rock Beach that has a number of move up problems and a good traverse. The seaward side is under water at high tide, and all of the problems start off the sand, so take a mat if you don't like getting your shoes sandy. The beach is a good place for a swim in summer.</text><text id="11" class="indentedHeader">Walter Burley Griffin Incinerator:
The Walter Burley Griffin Incinerator is an industrial heritage site with a large, thin slabby sandstone wall beneath it with grassy landings. The whole site is undergoing an urban renewal project and will function as an art space, artist studios and cafe in 2011. Down hill from the Incinerator is Henry Lawson's Cave. Apprently this is where he used to chill out and tick a few problems to clear his head while working on his epic poems. Further along the bike path is some fairly ordinary walls. You'll find the Incinerator next to the Willoughby Leisure Centre in Small St, Willoughby. Plenty of parking or ride your bike.</text><text id="12" class="indentedHeader">Explosives Reserve:
Apparently there's some potential bouldering in HC Press Park, located within the Explosives Reserve at the end of Cammaray Rd in Castle Cove.</text><text id="13" class="indentedHeader">The Wall, Forestville:
Located in Forestville, to the left (north) of Warringah Rd as it winds up the big hill after crossing Middle Harbour. To get there, park in Valley Rd and walk back down Warringah Rd until you reach the Forestville sign. Scramble down the hill to a cave and a wall. Covered in detail in the "Sydney Bouldering" guide.</text><text id="26" class="indentedHeader">Crumbly:
A bouldering and climbing area located under a huge overhang near the Mosman Rowing Club, Killarney Heights (about 200m right of Project Wall Right Side). The crag is renowned for its excellent bouldering and is described in detail in the Sydney Bouldering Guide. The crag also offers a couple of hard sport routes and some rotting aid routes as well, but details are sketchy. The crag is well protected from both the sun and rain (making it a great spot in summer), but it does tend to seep after long periods of rain. The crag is located within Garigal National Park.</text><text id="15" class="indentedHeader">Fox Cave:
Park at the end of Edinburgh Rd, Forestville. Head down the stairs until you reach a small cliff line. Follow this right until you reach a low cave, where the majority of the bouldering is located. Covered in detail in the "Sydney Bouldering" guide.</text><text id="16" class="indentedHeader">Satan:
Park at the end of Farrer Place in Forestville. It's a group of small walls and caves a short distance down into the bush. Covered in detail in the "Sydney Bouldering" guide.
</text><text id="18" class="indentedHeader">Seven Little Australians Park:
An untravelled little crag located under the small lookout in Seven Little Australians Park in Lindfield (about 500m west of Lindfield Rocks). The entrance to the park is off Slade Ave Lindfield, just past the Scout Hall. Follow the track through the stone archway and down the hill until it turns back left and passes under the lookout and some short walls. The crag has seen very little traffic, so be careful of loose surface flakes and spiders. There are some old manky bolts to be found about the place.</text><text id="29" class="indentedHeader">The Block:
A popular bouldering area located on the Lane Cover River walking track. To get to the crag, park at the corner of Blaxland and Terrace Rds, West Lindfield, then cross Allen Park and follow the firetrail for 50m or so. At this point take the left hand track and follow it for about 200m or so underneath a waterfall. The Block is the big boulder on the right hand side of the track. Covered in detail in the 2001 Sydney Bouldering Guide.</text><text id="31" class="indentedHeader">The Big Pump:
Another popular bouldering area, accessed as for the Block but after following the fire trail down the hill for a few hundred metres, take the second track left (marked with a "Great North Walk" track marker) and continue down to the footbridges across the creek. Cross the creek then leave the track and walk upstream (right) on the rocky slabs for 20 metres or so to the lower wall. Another 40m upstream and slightly up the hill is the main area, up above is The Big Pump. Has been described as "West Lindfield" in the past.</text><text id="19" class="indentedHeader">Lane Cove River:
The Lane Cove River corridor offers a lot of fine bouldering, above and beyond the well known Big Pump and Block bouldering crags. Behind Mowbray Rd Athletics Field (near the corner of Epping Rd and Mowbray Rd) is a line of cliffs adjacent to the track. To find the track, walk through the athletics area and follow the track that leaves from just behind the shot-put area. There's also a nice wall with excellent rock adjacent to Riverside Drive, opposite the old boat shed. The problems are all hard.</text><text id="20" class="indentedHeader">H.D.Robb Reserve:
See "Right of Way Crag".</text><image id="34" width="300" src="hdrobb.jpg"/><text id="32" class="indentedHeader">Headland Lookout:
An undeveloped crag in Castle Cove. This is the north facing snippet of orange tinged rock clearly visible to the south, west of the water, when driving across the Roseville bridge. Between number 43 and 49 Headland Rd there is a little reserve with a green electricity box. Park here. Wander 20m over to the fence, the crag is directly below. Hop the fence, drop down a few metres and walk left (west) for about 50 metres beneath No. 43 until a scrubby gully appears. Bush bash down and right (east) to the base of the crag. A machete will help. The crag is only about 40m wide, and a bit multi-tiered making most lines only about 8-10m. There is an open project by Will Monks, about grade 24. The sculptured arete at the right end of the crag, 1 BR and 2FH to chain.
</text><text id="24" class="indentedHeader">God's Country:
A mix of vertical and slightly overhanging hard sandstone wall, this crag offers a variety of nice slab problems and great beyond vertical "power walls" in the V0 to V8 range. Take care when cranking on small holds - some of the rock is quite friable. To get to the crag, park 50 metres south of the speed cameras on the eastern side of Arterial Road in Killara. Climb up 50 or so metres to find the first, extensive row of cliffs and head further up the hill for more. Could probably also approach from the top of the hill, from the south end of Warandoo St, Gordon. </text><text id="25" class="indentedHeader">Stone Mason's Forrest:
A 20m high disused quarry located just off Kalang Avenue in Killara. Not a bad spot in summer, but it does tend to seep quite badly during winter and after rain.</text><text id="23" class="indentedHeader">Kirribilli:
There are apparently some good sandstone block retaining walls in Kirribilli. Warwick Williams has bumbled around here a bit.</text>