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{guide}<guide guidestars="**">
<header intro="A very popular crag located high above the Woronora River. Although only quite short, there are many easy to mid grade routes here, and with top ropes so easy to set up, it's a great beginner's area. The crag is also a popular bouldering spot, with particularly good bouldering on the undercut section underneath The Whorl and Dorothy May and also on the Killer's Kidneys wall. The crag tends to be very cold in winter, since it faces pretty much south and catches the wind that comes howling up the Woronora River. Bundy rebolted a whole swag of routes in 2009, hardware donated by SRC rebolting fund. Onyas! Climbs described right to left, facing the cliff. " name="Bangor West (Main Area)" rock="Sandstone Climbing" sun="" id="1" access="To get to the main area, find Arunta Close, Bangor in your street directory and drive over there (forget public transport!). Park at the end of the close (being careful not to block any driveways) and wander down the fire trail between the houses at the end of the cul-de-sac. The main descent gully is about 10m to the right when you meet the fire trail. The second descent gully is about 30m further on to the right. Both are a wee bit tricky if laden with gear, lunch and pet pooch."/><text id="56" class="text">These cool routes are at the far right side of crag (when facing crag)</text><problem id="59" name="Arete Problem" grade="V8" fa="Joe">A square cut arête 80m right of The Whorl.</problem><climb id="60" name="Egg Rings" grade="18" length="10m" extra="4Þ">Fun jug pulling up steep wall on far right end of crag. Very well protected but has no lower-off.</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="16" id="1" length="13m" name="The Whorl" stars="**">
Start: At the far right hand end of the crag, in the trees. Marked.
A bouldery start leads to interesting climbing up a nice wall (be careful of the bridge of rock at half height). 4 BRs to double BB belay.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="16" id="2" length="13m" name="Dorothy May" stars="*">Marked DM. Climb starts approximately 1m left of "The Whorl". Very steep start using handlebar hold then stay left up the juggy arête on carrots.
</climb><text id="61">There is a popular well chalked bouldering cave at the base of the crag here.</text>
<climb grade="15" id="3" length="12m" name="Lean Too">
Start: The deep crack 1m left of DM.
Up the crack.
</climb>
<climb extra="4Þ " grade="20" id="4" length="12m" name="Shire Riot">The line of very shiny but dubious rings on right side of this buttress with an undercut start. Lots of slopers. Single bolt lower-off.</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="19/20" id="5" length="12m" name="The Shire Republic" stars="*">The line of carrots up the middle of this wall. Tricky rounded top out. First bolt is quite high.</climb>
<text id="6">
The main descent gully reaches the base of the crag here.
</text>
<climb extra="X" grade="12" id="7" length="6m" name="Rainman">
Start: The low angled face 2m left of the descent gully.
Up the face with no pro.
There are TR bolts.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ" grade="21" id="8" length="8m" name="NFM" stars="*">Marked NFM. Up to RB then leftwards past two carrots to top. Hard first move then easy top.
5m left of R, just under arete.</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " fa="H. Wallace 1992" grade="21" id="9" length="8m" name="Killer's Kidneys">
Start: Marked "KK". 3m left of NFM.
1. 3 BRs.
</climb>
<climb extra="3Þ" grade="18" id="10" length="7m" name="Pyromaniac" stars="*">Blast directly up reachy wall. No McDougal start - go direct or try something else.
Starts 3m left of KK.</climb><text id="62">The next wall is well featured and very popular.</text>
<climb fa="H. Wallace 1992" grade="20" id="11" length="10m" name="Dynamic Winter" stars="*" extra="X">
Start: Marked. On right hand edge of bulging buttress left of P.
1. A hard start, then continue up the arete, staying right of AB. No pro until after the crux. Double BBs.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="15" id="12" length="11m" name="Andrew's Bulge" stars="**">The crag classic warmup. Rebolted 2009.
Start marked with painted hand. 1m left of "Dynamic Winter"</climb>
<climb fa="G. Quinn (solo) 1985" grade="14" id="13" length="10m" name="Get Tracked">
Start: 0.5m left of AB at crack.
1. Up the crack.
</climb>
<climb grade="10" id="14" length="10m" name="Side Tracked">
Start: 0.5m left of GT.
1. Seam (small wires) with small thread at top.
</climb>
<climb fa="Steve Turcsanyi 1987" grade="16" id="15" length="10m" name="Pitted Arete" stars="*">
Start: As for ST.
1. Up the crack then left up the right side of the rounded arete.
</climb>
<climb fa="Steve Turcsanyi 1987" grade="21" id="16" length="8m" name="Mars Apple" extra="Þ">
Start: 1m left of PA. Marked T2.
1. Desperate start. Rebolted 2009
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " fa="Steve Turcsanyi 1987" grade="13" id="17" length="10m" name="Zulu Trainer">
Start: 1m left of MA.
1. Nice to the ledge then doddle to top. New bolts 2009.
</climb>
<climb grade="12" id="18" length="10m" name="Mike's Photogenic Crack">
Start: Corner crack left of ZT.
1. Bouldery start then easy.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ X" grade="21 (23?)" id="19" length="10m" name="Sports Injury Clinic">
Start: 1m L of MPC.
1. 3 manky BRs.
</climb>
<text id="20">
The climbs on the main wall get a bit confused from this point around to Python. My Girl and C are easy to locate (by the nice new bolts), but some of the others, who knows?
</text>
<climb extra="Þ X" fa="P. Farkas 1989-07" grade="19/21" id="21" length="8m" name="Tits and Bits">
Start: 1m left of SIC.
1. 2 FHs.
</climb>
<climb grade="8" id="22" length="10m" name="Christmas Nuts">
Start: 1m left of TaB.
1. The grovelly dirty chimney.
</climb>
<climb extra="3Þ" fa="Steve Turcsanyi 1985" grade="19" id="23" length="10m" name="Fixed Steps" stars="*">
Start: The rounded arete 1m left of CN.
Tricky stuff up and around the arete. Probably best to finish on anchors as for GGG. 3 new RBs

</climb>
<text id="24">
The following five climbs are on the huge block in front of the main wall.
</text>
<climb extra="X" grade="13" id="25" length="8m" name="Midway">
Start: On the left hand side of the boulder as you face it.
1. Up the juggy wall (take care with pro).
</climb>
<climb grade="6" id="26" length="8m" name="Tilba Tilba">
Start: On the side of the boulder facing the main wall.
1. Mantle then up. Easy but no pro.
</climb>
<climb extra="X" grade="18" id="27" length="15m" name="Voodoo Traverse" stars="*">
Start: As for TT.
1. Traverse right to second corner (?), then up.
</climb>
<climb extra="X" fa="H. Wallace 1992" grade="??" id="28" length="8m" name="Death of a Black Boy">
Start: Marked. On right side of big block above massacred black boy.
1. Jump start then natural gear (?). Double BB.
</climb>
<problem fa="Nick Clow 2003-07" grade="V3 / V4" id="29" length="18m" name="The Three Sides Traverse" stars="***">
Start: On the lefthand end of the downhill face.
1. Traverse right following hand traverse line. Round corner and traverse uphill (crux). Round corner and traverse short low overhung section to finish in cave.
</problem><climb id="66" name="Monkey Bars" length="5m" grade="20?" fa="Unknown">Monkey along the roof of the cave past RBs to the loweroffs.</climb><image id="67" src="Bangor_Roof.jpg" width="600"/><text id="68">[above] Richard Matthew-Stubbs on Monkey Bars (photo David Burgess)</text>
<text id="30">
Back to the main wall.
</text>
<climb fa="H. Wallace 1992" grade="22" id="31" length="9m" name="Go, Go, Gadget Arms">
Start: Marked GGG. 2m left of FS, on right hand side of blank wall.
1. Thin and desperate moves up the wall. Top rope only.
</climb><climb id="63" name="Go Go Gadget - 2009 Remix" fa="Project Bundy">Battle the bulges, directly up crimpy wall.
Right of MG, at vertical seam.</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " fa="Trevor Cooper-Williams 1992-01-14" grade="23" id="32" length="10m" name="My Girl" stars="*">
Start: 4m R of In Depth.
1. A thin boulder problem with bolts. 2 RBs to tree belay.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ X" grade="??" id="33" length="10m" name="C">
Start: 1m left of MG.
1. 3 manky BRs.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " fa="Chris Wallace 1992" grade="20/21" id="34" length="10m" name="D" stars="*">
Start: 1m left of C.
1. 2 FHs to chain.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ" fa="H. Wallace 1992" grade="20" id="35" length="10m" name="A Loving Hole">Up wall on new RBs
Just right of corner crack
</climb>
<climb fa="Glenn Short 1992" grade="19" id="36" length="10m" name="Bangor Tiger">
Start: As for ALH.
1. Traverse left and up. "How many micro routes can we squish in, tiger?"
</climb>
<climb grade="9" id="37" length="10m" name="In Depth">
Start: Corner crack 0.25m left of ALH.
1. Up the crack.
</climb>
<problem fa="Nick Clow 2003-11-24" grade="V4 / V5" id="38" length="9m" name="Arachnology for Kids Traverse" stars="***">
Start: As for ID.
1. Traverse right to finish at arete of 'Fixed Steps'. Nick says "This boulder problem is a corker. It took quite a while (maybe 5 or 6 trips) from initially conceiving it, dabbling and then working on it to finally finishing off. I was so pleased with the quality of it in the end because the key sequence is both technical and sustained in difficulty."
</problem>
<climb extra="X" grade="19+" id="39" length="10m" name="Python Direct">
Start: Just left of ID.
1. 1 BR then runout to top.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="16" id="40" length="10m" name="Python" stars="*">
Start: 1m L of PD.
1. 2 FHs to double BB belay.
</climb>
<climb grade="16" id="41" length="10m" name="Grandma's Wheelchair" stars="*">
Start: 4m left of P, on left hand side of cave.
1. Up then right past a BR and cam placements to a double BB belay.
</climb>
<climb fa="Steve Turcsanyi (solo) 1988" grade="14" id="42" length="9m" name="Get Walking">
Start: As for GW.
1. Straight up.
</climb>
<climb extra="X" grade="16" id="43" length="9m" name="Skulduggery">
Start: 2m left of GW at cave.
1. Up past manky BR then awkwardly over bulge. Easily to top.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="20" id="44" length="11m" name="End of the Decade" stars="*">
Start: Below traverse line, 3m left of S.
1. Groovy move to start, then out traverse line and up arete. 2 FHs and optional cam on low angled headwall. Double BBs.
</climb><climb id="64" name="End of the Century" stars="*" grade="22" length="10m" extra="Þ" fa="Jason Lammers 2009"> Directly up the wall past RBs to lower off. The best rock at Bangor !
As for EotD</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="17" id="45" length="9m" name="Grotto Crack" stars="*">
Start: Corner crack just left of EotD.
1. Pleasant bridging up corner. 2 BRs out right (or large cams for the ethically minded!).
</climb>
<climb fa="P. Farkas 1989" grade="19" id="46" length="9m" name="Buzz Boys Beat">
Start: 0.5m left of GC.
1. Up bulgy blocks. Take cams.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " fa="G. Quinn 1986" grade="16" id="47" length="8m" name="Zip" stars="*">
Start: 4m left of BBB.
1. Deceptive start, strenuous first clip (BR) then up easy wall past a 2nd BR. Double BB belay.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="17" id="48" length="10m" name="Unzip">
Start: 2m left of Z under roof.
1. Boulder right under roof then up as for Z.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " fa="G. Quinn 1986" grade="18" id="49" length="5m" name="Billabong">
Start: 5m left of U in middle of wall.
1. Thin wall climbing past 1? BR.
</climb>
<text id="50">
The second descent gully reaches the base of the cliff here.
</text>
<climb grade="15" id="51" length="5m" name="Ali">
Start: The jam crack 2m left of the descent gully.
1. Up the crack.
</climb>
<climb grade="15" id="52" length="6m" name="Slobbery Dog">
Start: Corner 6m left of A.
1. Up the corner.
</climb>
<climb extra="X" grade="12" id="53" length="7m" name="Rockclimber's Waltz">
Start: Marked.
1. Up offwidth and (loose looking!) blocks. Two variants at top.
</climb>
<climb grade="16" id="54" length="6m" name="Head Butte">
Start: 4m left of RW.
1. Ugly looking crack with reverse head jam.
</climb>
</guide>
{guide}