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{guide}<guide guidestars="**">
<header intro="One of the taller and better sport cliffs in The Shire. Routes are generally quite sustained, with superb rock quality and interesting sloping pocket features. The downside is the vegetation and the small number of routes. Seepage can be a problem after heavy rain. Recent rebolting and rebrushing has brought this cliff back to it's former 80s glory. " name="The Lost World" rock="Sport climbing" sun="Shady for most of the day" id="1" access="To get there, find Koorabar Road in Bangor and park at the southern end of the street. Walk to right edge (west) of little cleared park (thru a gate) to fire track below the houses. Walk west along this track for about 60m to a locked gate (on your right) across a diagonal access lane, opposite is a bush, walk down the left side and then head down the hill slightly right for 40m. Just before the cliff edge you’ll hit a track. Straight ahead is a cairn above the scramble down. Drop down and head left 10m then right (facing down), you’re level with the base of the Little East wall at this point. Drop down and walk right (facing out and down) 30m to the main wall. To get to the top the top of the main wall, turn right (west) and walk along a trail near the clifftop for 35m to cleared clifftop and carrot bolts (involves a small scramble down to this platform). Rap in from here. " acknowledgement="Updates from Neil Monteith &amp; Mike Law" walk="15 minutes"/><image id="27" src="lwaccess.jpg"/><climb id="31" name="Tull's ball tearer?">This is the only thing I could find here, though it is described as being 55m East of the little east facing wall, it's more like 30m east. Anyway, up hard dirty seam and black wall with very small chips, looks 24+</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="1">Little East Facing Wall</text>

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The following climb is on the small east facing wall halfway down the descent.
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<climb extra="Þ " fa="rebolted and direct finish added 2014 mikl" grade="20" id="4" length="12m" name="Screaming Pretty" stars="**">In middle of east facing wall.on descent Follow rings on good rock around roof to anchor. There is also an old carrot leading out left onto a dirty block, ignore.</climb><image id="48" src="screamingT.jpg"/><text id="49">Line of Screaming pretty from the descent.</text><climb id="35" name="Grunting and Groaning" length="17m" grade="20">Leftwards traverse, finish up Screaming Pretty past dodgy bolt.</climb><climb id="30" name="White Corner" stars="**" length="15m" grade="24" fa="mikl 2014">trad, a bit scary if you are old but good gear. About 10 m left of the base of the descent, almost straight below Screaming pretty. I used a nut tool to get the good wires in off the ledge. little wires up corner to small cams and a fist sized cam at the lip</climb>

<text class="heading3" id="6">Main Wall
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<text id="7" class="intro">Located about 25m further left of the previous section is this impressive 25m high wall
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<image id="40" src="MainTopoNames'.jpg" width="800"/><climb id="22" number="1" name="Dirt Trawler" length="20m" grade="23" extra="6Þ" fa="">Dirty and thin. Climbs the face on the right side of the prominent arete. Scramble up to vegetated ledge under big roof, out right under roof and then back left onto thin face. Direct up face avoiding the arête on the left.</climb><climb id="23" number="2" name="Dirt Trawler Left Variant" length="22m" grade="21" extra="7Þ ">About the best warm up here - but still a bit dirty. An easier variant to Dirt Trawler. Up that route to 3rd bolt then traverse left across sloping horizontal break to arête and up this finish.</climb><climb id="25" name="Nightcrawler (project)" length="20m" extra="8Þ" fa="Project Neil Monteith" number="3">The big ceiling direct and then up the gritty main arete. Probably grade 28+?</climb><climb id="32" stars="***" name="Grass Direct" length="18" grade="25" extra="Þ " fa="mikl law 2014">Start below twin roof cracks marked PT. Up and through roof, move R on lip and up twin slapping cracks then seam above (KotG).</climb><image id="46" src="grass4.jpg"/><text id="47">mikl working Grass Direct
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<climb extra="Þ" fa="Neil Mahant c1988" grade="23" id="9" length="20m" name="Keep Off the Grass" number="4" stars="**"> Marked PT. Start up Fun and Destruction and traverse right 2m above roof. Rebolted 8/2009
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<climb extra="7Þ " fa="Neil Mahant c1988" grade="23" id="10" length="20m" name="Fun and Destruction" number="5" stars="***">AKA Fun and Danger (erroneous). Great sustained and varied climbing from start to finish. Starts on left edge of cave. Up jugs to small ledge, traverse left across horizontal break and up to under bulge. Over this and up crimpy face with a little left trend under 2nd bulge to water-washed pockets. Run it out up easier ground to the anchor. Rebolted 8/2009
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<climb extra="7Þ " fa="Neil Mahant c1988" grade="23" id="11" length="26m" name="Cat Burglar" stars="*" number="6">A big girdle traverse to get onto the arete. Start as for Eudaimonia to 2nd bolt then big rightwards traversing link-up line eventually joining into the end arete of Nightcrawler.</climb>
<climb extra="6Þ" fa="Neil Mahant c1988" grade="22" id="12" length="20m" name="Eudaimonia" stars="**" number="7">1m left of the chipped "PT". A great climb up a series of bulges and seams on the left end of the wall. This route was originally chipped in two places, the lower one has been filled so grade has been bumped up. Rebolted 8/2009.</climb>
<climb extra="Þ" fa="Neil Mahant c1988" grade="25" id="13" length="20m" name="Superforce" number="8">Bloody hard! Start a few metres left of E. Up through roof and step right, hard move past ring and old piton, then up to lower-off (shared with Soup or Force)</climb><climb id="17" name="Soup or Force" stars="*" length="15" grade="22" extra="Þ" fa="Mike Law 2009" number="9">Start as for Superforce. Delicate and reachy start coming in the from the left, then through the roof on secret holds and finish up seam on the left line of bolts.
</climb><climb id="36" name="BlockRock'n" extra="Þ" stars="**" length="16" grade="23" fa="mikl">About 20m L of Soup or Force, scramble up onto ledge. Up slabs and right arete of hanging block.</climb><image id="42" src="blockRokn.jpg" width="700"/><text id="43">mikl of FA of Blockrockn</text><climb id="41" stars="**" extra="Þ " name="Jam, no butter" length="16" grade="22" fa="Patrick Burr 2015">More like Butter, no jams. About 20m L of Soup or Force, scramble up onto ledge. Up easy corner on left then R and up slab and thin crack thru block. You can skip top (dogging) bolt if you use a short draw or locking biner on 2nd bolt on bulge.</climb><text id="37" class="heading3">Hobbit Corner Area</text><text id="33">Walk 45 m left of the Main Wall and scramble up to ledge on rungs below Funky Little Corner. walk R to Hobbit Corner</text><image id="44" src="hbbtCnr.jpg" width="700"/><text id="45">Monty on Hobbit Corner</text><climb id="34" name="Hobbit Corner" stars="**" length="10" grade="20" fa="mikl 2014">Shire classic, take extra finger sized nuts and shallow cams or a pink tricam, keep a green camalot for the top. Up past good break through blank corner to good breaks and up</climb><climb id="38" name="Friction Project">10m L of Hobbit Corner. Up wall, roof, and shallow corner .</climb><climb id="39" name="Funky Little Corner" stars="*" length="9" grade="21" extra="Þ " fa="mikl">20m L of Hobbit Corner. Up corner. Wet after rain</climb><text id="18" class="heading3">Lost World Cave</text><text id="19" class="intro">Walk a further 100m left from the main wall to find this very steep orange cave. The last bit of good rock, and quite an impressive cave with a prominent bolted corner with undercut start. This cave can seep quite heavily after rain. It is much faster to access this from the western end by scrambling down below the Bangor cliff.</text><climb id="51" name="Mikl's Roof Project" extra="Þ" length="10m">Right side of cave 10m R of Neils scoop project. Follows roof flake horizontally.</climb><climb id="50" name="Family Ties" length="10m" extra="5Þ" stars="**" grade="25" fa="Neil Monteith, 8.8.2015">The direct line through the pocketed roof into the bizarre bell shaped scoop then straight up the technical stemming corner. Corner seeps for days after heavy rain.</climb><climb id="20" name="Ancestry" extra="8Þ" fa="Neil Montieth, 15.8.2015" length="15m" stars="**" grade="25">Very steep. Start at right end of lower bolted flake in middle of cave. Long traverse left across horizontals, then through scoopy roof and up stemming corner.</climb>
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