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{guide}<guide guidestars="**">
<header intro="One of the larger cliffs in the Shire, with good rock quality and a scenic position perched above Great Moon Bay (Georges River). A day underneath the high frequency wires, on a cliff a little larger than the normal Shire stone, with easy access, makes for a good day out. The cliff comes into shade early so its not a bad spot to enjoy a summer's afternoon or a winter's morning." name="Alfords Point" rock="Short, easy access" sun="Morning sun, then shade most of the day" id="1" access="The crag is located on the eastern side of Alford's Point Rd, south of the Alford's Point Bridge. The new bridge and road works have changed access. Park in Maxwell Close and walk right (north) along the bike path along Alford's Point Rd for a couple of hundred meters until you see a thin concrete pillar 1m high in the bush with white and blue stickers, and extensive views out east over the river. The crag is below. There is an easy scramble down to the base at the southern end of the cliff (right hand, facing river). Sometimes there is a hermit living in the cave near &quot;Green Frogs and Liver&quot;, he is not too scary so say hello! The crag is located within Georges River National Park." walk="5 minutes" acknowledgement="David Barnes, Neil Monteith" camping="" history="This area was first known as a Scout abseiling hangout. Because of its weird access off the freeway it was ignored for many years by 'real' rockclimbers. In the early 1990's the area was visited by Chris Wallace, Dave Barnes and the growing crowd from the new local gym at the time, The Rocknasium. This is when many of the established routes were done. "/><text id="16">Climbs described left to right (south to north), facing the cliff.</text>
<climb extra="Þ" fa="Shae Constantine 1994" grade="18" id="1" length="6m" name="Green Frogs and Liver">20m Left of main wall. 2 Ubolts to lower-off.
</climb><climb id="23" name="Blackened Slab" length="10m" grade="16" fa="?" extra="Þ ">Random dark bolt about 10m left of main wall. Climb past 3 rings to shared lower-off with Runnel Wall.</climb><climb id="33" name="Runnel Wall" length="10m" grade="10" extra="Þ " fa="mikl solo 2014" stars="*">Start 2m R of Blackened Slab, step up right onto ledge then gain big ledge, left and up nose to shared lower-off. Belay practice setup possible at halfway ledge on 2 Ubolts</climb><climb id="58" stars="*" name="Iota" length="6" grade="17" extra="Þ" fa="mikl 2015 solo then retrobolted">start1 M left of MacGuyer, up. Nice but tiny.
</climb><climb id="59" stars="*" name="Smidgeon" length="6" grade="19" extra="Þ" fa="mikl 2015 solo then retrobolted">Start as for McGuyver and up, move left to single bolt lower off for Iota</climb><climb id="52" name="MacGyver" fa="Bundy and Wade - 2014" length="8m" grade="16" extra="Þ ">The climb - that was supposed to be a warm up, but didn't quite work out that way. Quite tricky for the grade and missing a clip could find you on the floor. Start on left side of short orange wall. Traverse right wards along the break then up the big flake. Continue to move right to anchors below big tree.</climb><climb id="53" name=" Bee's Dick" length="10m" grade="23" fa="Wade and Bundy - 2014" extra="Þ ">As per MacG, but continue to traverse along the break for another bolt then up the tricky moves on NA.</climb>
<climb extra="Þ" fa="Chris Wallace 1993" grade="23" id="2" length="6m" name="No Answers">Start below orange streak, left of main wall. Thin and bulgy. Three FHs.
</climb><climb id="54" name="Bundy's after work winter project" length="8m" fa="Bundy in winter time" extra="Þ">There are no holds so will need to wait to winter to try this one. Start up Suburbanitis to break then move left and up to lower offs.</climb><image id="29" src="AlMainTopo.jpg" width="700"/>
<climb extra="6Þ" fa="David Barnes 1993 (retrobolted)" grade="18" id="3" length="16m" name="Suburbanitis" stars="**">Nice wall with a hard thin start and easy finish. Start at big pockets on left side of tall wall. Cruxy thin moves past three bolts to ledge. Up to steep flake with cool, easy moves, then right and up to lower-off anchor. Was 16, but with inflation now 18.
</climb>
<climb fa="Chris Wallace 1993" grade="19" id="4" length="16m" name="Brown Hornet" stars="**" extra="6Þ">Start 1m right of S. Stickclip first ring and boulder the bulge at the start to pockets. Trend right for a few bolts then straight up the middle of wall above to shared lower-off with S. Was 15 until The Alfords Point Regrading Committee fixed that.</climb>
<climb grade="19" id="5" length="17m" name="Brother Sun" stars="**" extra="6Þ" fa="(retrobolted)">A great wall route with excellent features. Juggy pockets to start, then a few tricky moves to gain big left facing flake. Lower-off anchor. Was originally led with one bolt.
</climb><climb id="51" stars="**" name="SBB Link Up" length="18m" grade="18" extra="mixed" fa="Probably climbed as a variation in the 90's">A link-up chasing good protection and climbing on Suburbanitis, Brown Hornet and Brother Sun. Great climbing with even greater pro. Start at first bolt for S and head up and diagonally right with either cams in pockets or clip bolts. Up flake on BS and to lower-off anchors.</climb><image id="18" src="alfords_nobolts.JPG" width="400" legend="true" legendTitle="Rod Smith on Brother Sun"/>
<climb grade="21" id="6" length="17m" name="Sister Moon" stars="***" extra="6Þ" fa="(retrobolted)">2m right of BS. Crag classic up the highest part of this crag. A long featured wall climb. Lower-off anchor at top.</climb><climb id="19" stars="**" number="" name="Cherry" length="15m" grade="21" fa="Jason Lammers, Paul Thomson &amp; Neil Monteith, Jan 2013" extra="Þ">Burly start 1 m right of SM, with a bit of a move near the top.</climb>
<climb extra="5Þ" fa="Shae Constantine 1994" grade="17" id="7" length="5m" name="Fabulous Muppet Show" stars="*">The arete. 5 Ubolts to lower off. Avoid the desperate dyno start by coming in from the right up delicate corner.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ" fa="Doug Smith 1998" grade="23" id="8" length="14m" name="Fabulous Muppet Show Direct Start" stars="*">Directly below FMS. Stick clip BR then boulder up and dyno to jug. Continue as for FMS.
</climb>
<climb grade="" id="9" length="7m" name="Mad Bolter" extra="X">Short roof climb through middle of small cave above FMS. 3 new Ubolts to lower off. Belay well, the ground is close. Has this been climbed?</climb><climb id="50" name="Mrs Doubthold" length="7m" grade="20" extra="3Þ" fa="Jeff Crass 2014">Start just right of Mad Bolter and traverse left crossing MB at the 3rd bolt. Finishes with hands on top at the crack, backjump to clean.</climb>
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A scramble up is possible here, further right the cliff gets bigger again.</text><climb id="46" name="Bumbly's First" length="8m" grade="14" fa="Erwin Gamboa, 2014" extra="2Þ">Corner and arete 4m L of 4 moves 3 bolts</climb><climb id="60" stars="*" name="Stumpy" length="8" grade="21" extra="2Þ " fa="mikl 2016">2 cool boulder problems, step left to shared anchor</climb><climb id="24" name="4 moves 3 bolts" stars="*" length="18m" grade="24" extra="Þ" fa="mikl 2014">20m R of main wall is short wall with a crack on the left. Bolted line 3m R of crack. Up to ledge then onwards</climb><image id="36" src="juggyProj1.jpg" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="trying 4 moves 3 bolts"/><image id="30" src="alfords point for web.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="The right hand walls, the smooth wall in the foreground is Breaking Good and the corner further right is Vintage Cuvee"/><image id="32" src="alfordspointNames.jpg" width="900"/><climb id="41" stars="*" name="Stretch Target" length="8m" grade="24" extra="Þ " fa="mikl 2014">Start 2m R of 4 Moves 3 Bolts. Levitate up wall.</climb><climb id="25" stars="**" name="Breaking Good" length="18m" grade="21" fa="mikl law, Jeff Crass">Trad climbing on Arapiles style breaks. Start in middle of orange wall, 3 finger to thin-hand cams in first break then easily to ledge and up wall behind. Boltholes have been drilled on this in strange places also.</climb><image id="38" src="breakingGood.jpg" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="mikl placing cams on the FA of Breaking Good"/><image id="37" src="Gushing shins1.jpg" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Jeff Crass on the FA of Gushing Shins"/><climb id="47" name="It's a wrap" stars="**" length="15" grade="18" fa="V Peterson 2016">3m right of Breaking Good. Start off short person's cheating stone and up</climb><climb id="26" stars="**" name="Gushing Shins" length="15m" grade="19" extra="Þ" fa="Jeff Crass 2014">Start at thin seam 4m above the ground marked K (probably an old top-rope route), 6m right of Breaking Good, 40m R of main wall. Up seam and wall.</climb><climb id="42" stars="**" name="Gushing Knees" length="15m" grade="19" extra="Þ " fa="Jeff Crass 2014">Start 3m right of Gushing Shins, up and follow vague seam to shared lower-off with Gushing Shins</climb>
<climb extra="Þ" fa="Chris Wallace 1993" grade="20" id="11" length="15m" name="Necropolis Kidney" stars="*">3m right of Gushing Shins. Short slab to shallow seam. Share lower-off with Viva la Papa</climb>
<climb fa="David Barnes 1994 (retrobolted)" grade="19" id="12" length="15m" name="Viva La Papa" stars="**" number="" extra="Þ">Tricky slab, then super orange stone to overhang. Loweroff.
</climb><climb id="43" stars="*" name="Lurch" length="15m" grade="20" extra="Þ " fa="mikl 2014">Start 1m R of VLP and up till you can out a foot in Vintage Cuvee for a move</climb><climb id="20" stars="**" number="" name="Vintage Cuvée" length="15m" grade="16" extra="Þ">Orange left facing corner some 50m R of the main wall. Easy start, into nice corner. Pop out right and up the nice headwall.</climb><climb id="21" name="Vintage Direct" number="" length="15m" grade="24" stars="**" fa="mikl law 29/05/2014">Start just R of VC, follow the seam and holds on right then through bulge and seam. Classic Arapiles style trad climbing on bomber rock. The top 4m was an old sport route on dangerous bolts. The new trad version was head-pointed (easy to toprope off Vintage Cuvee rings) to find gear including 2 good RPs in first seam, and big cams (fist) in the back of the cave before final bulge.</climb><image id="39" src="P5290007.jpg" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="mikl wearing reading glasses to get the RPs in on the FA of Vintage Direct"/><climb id="27" stars="**" name="Sweet Charlotte" length="15m" grade="25" extra="Þ" fa="Dave Barnes 1994">2 hard sections up wall 3m R of VC, shares a crimp at the start.</climb>
<climb fa="David Barnes 1994" grade="23" id="13" length="15m" name="Show Us Your Form" stars="**" extra="Þ">Start at tree 6m R of VC, up and thru roof
</climb><climb id="35" stars="**" name="Glamworm Roof" length="15m" grade="23" extra="Þ " fa="mikl 15-06-2014">Weird outward facing move through roof, start as for Show Us Your Form for 5m then step right to seam.</climb><climb id="48" name="Roof project">Start 3m R of SUYF</climb><climb id="44" stars="**" name="Working from Home" length="15m" grade="23" extra="Þ " fa="Bundy 2014">Nice finish to Give Me Souls, from the 3rd bolt on GMS, step left and up, traverse lip and up to same lower-off.</climb>
<climb fa="David Barnes 1994" grade="23" id="14" length="15m" name="Give Me Souls" extra="Þ" stars="**">Start in left side of big cave, 5m right of tree and SUYF. Up steeply left and on to the head wall.
</climb><climb id="22" name="Roof Stalker" length="16m" grade="22" stars="**" extra="Þ">Hard start then up to horizontal flake thingo. Clip a couple RBs in the roof, and then up the headwall. </climb><climb id="55" name="Ogawayama" length="15m" grade="23" fa="Bundy - 2014" extra="Þ">Up RS to the Mikl flake (use extended draw or sling here) and traverse right across the lip of the roof to a big (hard) move on big holds to easy dirty finish.</climb><climb id="56" name="Exploding V" length="15m" grade="23" fa="Wade - 2014" extra="Þ">Not sure how the Shire grid bolting locals missed this, but Wade found himself a sweet line to bolt for his first ever FA.

Then next one along in the cave. Steep start with some hard moves thru the V - then easy to the top. </climb>
<climb extra="6Þ" fa="David Barnes 1993" grade="15" id="15" length="14m" name="Sideline Jack" stars="**">A long forgotten route now rejuvenated to become A Sydney Bumbly Classic! The line of rings at the right end of the cave, at the left side of some small trees against the wall. Up to cave slot and through steep and incredibly juggy terrain. 6 U-bolts to lower-off.
</climb><climb id="57" stars="*" name="Japan15" length="12m" grade="18" fa="Bundy - 2014" extra="Þ">Great latter day addition. Clip first bolt on 'SJ' then up rightwards thru the bulges. Good double down this way with SJ</climb><climb id="49" stars="*" name="Soccer Mum" length="14m" grade="17" extra="Þ " fa="Vanessa Peterson 2014">A steep wall, start 3m R of Sideline jack, at the right side of small trees against the wall. Watch out for Sodomy bush when lowering off.</climb>
</guide>
{guide}