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{guide}<guide>
<header intro="A generally slabby and unfashionable cliff with a fair selection of mid to hard grade routes. Many of these routes were heavily chipped in the heady days of the 80s. Most routes are now covered in dirt and lichen and the bolts are of very questionable quality. The crag is right on the road. Zero access you say - yippee! However, in these days of litigation concerns by land managers, I suggest we relegate this crag to the history section and go climb somewhere else!" name="Lugarno" rock="" sun="" id="1" access="To get to the crag, drive south down Forest Rd, Lugarno, and stop about 200m from its end. The cliff is located on the right hand side of the road (watch out for cars). Climbs described right to left, facing the cliff." acknowledgement=""/><image id="15" src="2363.jpg" width="800"/>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="24" id="1" length="12m" name="Giles" stars="**">Start below the right hand arete of the main wall. "A prominent nose, a bit thin on top." Up passing 3 BRs.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="24" id="2" length="12m" name="Rotpunkt" stars="*">Left of G. Up, passing 4 BRs.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="18" id="3" length="12m" name="Prix" stars="*">Left of R. Up tending right (4 BRs).
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="23" id="4" length="12m" name="Flying Coyotes">Left of P. Up, trending slightly left (3 BRs).
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="23" id="5" length="12m" name="All Juiced Up" stars="*">Left of FC. Up, trending right towards the top of FC (4 BRs).
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="23" id="6" length="12m" name="Git Squelchin'" stars="*">Left of AJU. Up to BR, move right and continue up past 3 more BRs.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="23" id="7" length="12m" name="Sleeping Women">Start as for GS. Up to first BR on GS, then diagonally left past 3 more BRs.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="24" id="8" length="12m" name="Hit the Bus" stars="*">Left of SW, just right of corner in middle of wall. Up, passing 3 BRs.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="20" id="9" length="12m" name="Rhythm and Bondage" stars="*">Just left of the corner in the middle of the wall. Up, passing 3 BRs.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="23" id="10" length="12m" name="Skin">A fair way left of RaB. Up, passing 2 BRs.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="20" id="11" length="12m" name="Mr Plod">Left of S. Up, passing 3 BRs.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="23" id="12" length="12m" name="Perpetual Motion">Just left of MP. Up, passing 3 BRs.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="21" id="13" length="12m" name="No Standing">Just left of PM, at base of left trending corner. Directly up from start, passing 2 BRs.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ " grade="23" id="14" length="12m" name="Perfect Pitch">Left of small crack and cave. Up (2 BRs) to overlap, then move diagonally right to final BR on NS.
</climb><text id="16" class="heading3">Lugarno Cave</text><image id="17" src="2364.jpg" width="800"/><text id="18">A hidden cave of impressive dimensions tucked away above the main cliff. Sadly it's mostly blank - but a few taps with a drill seems to have solved one impressive line! The history of this cliff is a bit lost - apparently Mikl tells a story of some hard aid route he did with Carrigan up here?? Rock quality is brilliant.

Scramble up the steep hillside from the left end of the Roadside crag on a very vague track. </text>
</guide>
{guide}