View Source

{guide}<guide>
<header intro="A secluded but rather limited little sea cliff located in front of the Waverley Cemetery (North Clovelly / South Bronte). " name="Bronte" rock="Sea cliff" sun="Morning sun" id="1" access="To get there, park at the corner of Boundary and Ocean Sts in Clovelly and follow the popular cliff top track north. Just south of the rubbishy gully in the middle of the cemetery is a large rock platform. A fisherperson's track leads down between the boulders at the southern end of this. You can also scramble south around the rocks from the rubbishy gully. The climbs around Mail Sorter (the obvious roof crack in the centre of the crag) start in the littoral zone, and waves often come rushing in under the huge block, with little warning. Take care if you're climbing here. There is also a bit of bouldering to be had on the huge boulders around the base of the southern descent route." camping=""/><image id="16" src="bronte.jpg"/><text id="17">Climbs described left to right facing the cliff (south to north).</text>
<climb extra="X" grade="25" id="1" length="25m" name="Flexitime" fa="Mikl Law 1980's">7m left of MS on small boulder.
1. 18m (25). Traverse right to small cave. Over roof then continue traversing right to corner. Up this then over roof (manky BB).
2. 7m. Delicate moves lead left and up.
</climb>
<climb grade="23" id="2" length="20m" name="Mail Sorter" stars="***" fa="Greg Child 1980s">Cool roof crack. Starting just right of the obvious roof crack. Up and left to crack then out.
</climb>
<climb extra="X" grade="24" id="3" length="18m" name="Having Babies" stars="**" fa="Mikl Law 1980's">Head halfway out the roof of MS, then launch right out the roof then continue up (dodgy BRs).
</climb><climb id="19" name="Japanese Route" length="12m" grade="14" fa="Mike Law 1980's">The scrappy corner right of MS.</climb>
<climb extra="X" grade="22" id="4" length="20m" name="Men Only" fa="Mikl Law 1980's">As for JR to roof, then traverse left along the lip (clipping manky BRs on HB).
</climb><image id="20" src="Men Only.JPG" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Warwick Baird on Men Only (circa 1981)"/>

<climb extra="X" grade="15" id="6" length="12m" name="Not Wot It Seams" fa="Mikl Law 1980's">Just right of JR, behind the huge block. Climb steep wall past rotten BR, move left then up the face above (manky BR). Single BB in the middle of the rock platform, with small cams right near the edge.
</climb>
<climb extra="X" grade="23" id="7" length="15m" name="Wrinkle City" stars="**" fa="Mikl Law 1980's">About 10m right of NWIS, just left of arete. Onto wall, veer slightly right to rooves then a hard move past a rotten BR. Three manky BBs for the belay.
</climb>
<climb extra="X" grade="21" id="8" length="18m" name="Poste Haste" stars="*" fa="Mikl Law 1980's">As for WC up to break at 4m, traverse right to arete then up, moving around the arete near the top. Manky BBs at the top.
</climb>
<climb extra="X" grade="23" id="9" length="18m" name="Post Haste Direct Start" fa="Mikl Law 1980's">The arete right of PH.
</climb>
<climb extra="Þ X" grade="23" id="10" length="18m" name="Hook, Line and G String" stars="*" fa="Mikl Stacey 1990's">On boulder 10m right of PHDS. Batman to the holds below the first BR, then up through rooves and up nice wall above. Five manky BRs in all.
</climb>
<text id="11">The following two climbs are located on the north facing walls on the southern side of the wide rubbishy gully.
</text>
<climb grade="15" id="12" length="10m" name="Mal's Corner" fa="Mal Johnson 1980's">Recessed corner 10m right of HLaGS. Up the corner, traverse right around roof then up wall above. Often wet.
</climb>
<climb grade="15" id="13" length="10m" name="Cracksville" fa="Mikl Law 1980's">3m right of MC. Up the lovely thin crack in orange rock then continue up the wall above.
</climb>
<text id="14">The following climb is located just north of the gully.
</text>
<climb grade="13" id="15" length="12m" name="A">Just past the arete on the northern side of the rubbishy gully. Up over the obvious wind blown cave then up the (sometimes damp) wall above. Two good BBs for the belay. Top rope only.
</climb>
</guide>
{guide}