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IntroductionThis great little cliff sits across the gully downstream of Old Baldy, and shares a similar southerly aspect so is ideal for summer. The walk in is about the same as for Old Baldy Lower; a bit further along the flat but not as steep on the up. The Static Wall area has excellent rock, offering fine face and crack climbing. |
HistoryThe first recorded climbs were done in 1975-77, including the classic line of Static by Mike Law. Nothing at all happened for another 25 years until Wade Stevens and friends arrived and put up a host of quality modern routes. There is still plenty to do. |
AccessFrom Little Capertee camping area, follow the pipeline track to Petrie's Gully Creek, which is just after passing the large metal tank. Cross the creek and go up to an embankment (the pipeline track heads R from here), head L 70m and locate a cairn marking the route uphill. The track should meet the first tier at a corner with a rusting chain and manky rope. Scramble up this and follow the cairns left under the cliff to reach the base of Over and Out and Raft Shaft (both marked). Either climb the first pitch of Raft Shaft (grade 12) or continue a little further left to locate the scramble up to the middle tier. (marked with an arrow). Raft Shaft and Over and Out cross each other at the middle tier. For convenience these pitches have been described as independent climbs. It is recommended you rack up at the bottom of all the scrambling, and take a daypack with water, guide, etc. to the middle tier, where the best climbing is. The scrambles are a bit of a pain with a full backpack to lug up. |
CampingLittle Capertee or Southside |
| Bluestain | 17 | 65m | |||
| Start in a L-facing corner of grey rock, about 70m L of the scramble up to the middle tier. Marked. 1. 22m 17. Bridge and layback up to ledge. [Apparently a good pitch?] 2. 35m. Easy crack to cave in the wall on the L. Now up L to corner. 3. 8m. Continue up the corner. | |||||
| Joe Friend, Charlie Brown 13-2-1977 | |||||
There is a superb canyon descent 300m L of the top of Bluestain. This is a mini expedition and does take some time.
| * | Raft Shaft (pitch 1) | 12 | 12m | ||
| Start in a short L-facing corner, 70m R of the scramble to the middle tier. Up short clean corner crack to the large wooded ledge (the middle tier). | |||||
| Pete Taylor, Kim Carrigan, Mike Law 22-2-75 | |||||
| Over and Out (pitch 1) | 19 | 12m | |||
| 12m R of Raft Shaft below a hard looking finger crack corner starting about 3m up above rotten yellow overhangs. A party of three is needed to start. Climb up onto the back of the spare second and then onto his head to reach a good hold above the lip of the overhang. Crank up and desperately mantle onto a small ledge. Up the corner with some fine but thin bridging to a large wooded ledge (the middle tier). | |||||
| Mike Law, Andrew Penney, Geoff Herbett 15-10-1977 | |||||
The corner system and roof crack 60m R of Over and Out (pitch 1) is unclimbed.
| Janicepts Direct | 20 | 50m | |||
| An interesting roof route, good value and hard. Start about 300m R of Over and Out and about 60km north-north-west of Janicepts. Look for a R-facing corner of red and yellow rock leading to a triangular shaped roof. 1. 15m. Up short groove and corner to roof. 2. 15m. Traverse R under roof and up crack. 3. 20m. Up wall and traverse L to tree. A direct finish could be done continuing straight on up. | |||||
| Colin Reece, Mike Law, May 1977 | |||||
| * | Dick Rippington | 20 | 50m | ||
| Another big ceiling. A one move problem. Start 50m R of Janicepts Direct at a L-facing corner of good looking grey rock which deteriorates all too soon. 1. 25m crux. Up corner and jamb big roof (it's not too bad if you shut your eyes). Alcove belay. 2. 25m. Follow delightful crack to top. | |||||
| Glenn Tempest, Matt Taylor (alt. leads), Mike Law, May 1977 | |||||
| Scarlet Harlot | 18 | 50m | |||
| A beautiful and aesthetic line with much fine jambing. Start 40m R of Dick Rippington at the Lhand of twin tracks. Marked "TD". 1. 15m 17(R). Up thin crack to roof. Delightful bridging establishes one in the main corner system. Now up to tree anchor. 2. 30m (R). Follow the line past an enormous tree to the next ledge. [Possibly now vegetated.] 3. 35m 18. Up short corner, moving L to a ledge. Across this for 3m to base of final corner. [Last 6m aided on FA, seconded free.] | |||||
| Kim Carrigan, Mike Law (alt. leads) 22-2-1975 | |||||
| Pipeline | 21 | 90m | |||
| A very good route with three big roofs. The first ceiling is a classic. Start 2m R of Scarlet Harlot below a roof 3m up. 1. 30m crux. Face climbing and laybacking through ceiling and up crack. Take large pro. 2. 30m. Jamb and layback bulge, up crack a bit, then traverse R across wall and up to base of corner. 3. 30m. Follow the lefthand line up easy wide crack and blocks to roof. Very technical climbing through bulge. | |||||
| Mike Law, Matt Taylor (alt. leads) May 1977 | |||||
| Cool Tool | 15 | 20m | |||
| Start 12m L of the top of the scramble up route, at an obvious R-facing corner. Up easily with excellent protection to the top. | |||||
| Simon Kenny, Dave McLean, Giles Bradbury, May 1977 | |||||
| * * | May Day Mayday | 16 | 16m | ||
| The curving flake line 4m R of Cool Tool. Bouldery start then fine moves and great pro to top. | |||||
| Glen Lewin, Wade Stevens 21-5-2000 | |||||
| * | Uniden | 17 | 20m | ||
| The top of the range CB radio. Start 4m L of the arete of Channel 9. Scramble 3m up to a ledge then up wall (4BR, wires, BR) to 2BB, large tree anchor. | |||||
| Glen Lewin, Chris Wilmott, Chris Thomas 21-5-2000 | |||||
| * | Scanner | 14 | 20m | ||
| Start 2m L of Channel 9. Scramble 3m up to a ledge then up wall just L of scoops. Up easy ramp then headwall. 5BR and SLCD. 2BB. | |||||
| Glen Lewin, Nina Cullen 10-6-2000 | |||||
| Channel 9 | 12 | 20m | |||
| The emergency channel! Start 12m R of Cool Tool at the arete. This is directly above where the scramble up route reaches the ledge. Straight up the arete with very limited protection. | |||||
| Mike Law (solo) 15-10-1977 | |||||
| * | Single Side Band | 17 | 20m | ||
| A bit contrived but the crux is inescapable. Start as for Channel 9. Up R side of arete (5BR) to ledge. Step slightly R and up arete (BR and SLCD) to top. | |||||
| Glen Lewin, Cat Bullen 5-6-2000 | |||||
The line just L of Static has not been led free. Start up Static, hand traverse 2m L and up to a scoop then up with increasing difficulty.
| * * | Static | 21 | 18m | ||
| Absolutely brilliant. Steep and technical. A jaw-dropping line up an impressive piece of rock. Start marked 5m R of Channel 9 at the thin diagonal crack at the L end of the smooth wall. Climb the crack and its continuation to ledge. | |||||
| Mike Law, Andrew Penney 15-10-1977 | |||||
| * * | Wireless | 21 | 30m | ||
| Start 6m R of Static. The start looks bouldery, stick clip? 1. 15m 19. Up (2BR) to narrow ledge (BR) then traverse R (2BR) to 2BB just R of scoops. 2. 15m 21. Easily up scoops then wall (7BR) to 2BB on ledge. | |||||
| Glen Lewin, Wade Stevens 10-60-2000 | |||||
| * * | The Unforgettable Wire | 19 | 22m | ||
| The short section of crack at the start provides the crux. The wall offers delightful climbing on immaculate rock. Start as for Over and Out pitch two. Up Over and Out pitch two for 6m to reach problem that gets you onto a sloping footledge. Move L 3m (BR) then up the featured wall (4BR) to ledge. 2BB for top-out plus 3BB 4m L on wall of cave. | |||||
| Wade Stevens, Nina Cullen 4-6-2000 | |||||
| * * | Over and Out (pitch 2) | 20 | 23m | ||
| A superb, sustained pitch. The holds appear as needed and when least expected. Start about 20m R of Static at the thin crack behind a large tree 8m L of the major L-facing corner of Raft Shaft (pitch two). Straight up the crack to just below the ledge then traverse L and up to rubbly ledge below the cave. 2BB of wireless. | |||||
| Andrew Penney, Geoff Herbert, Mike Law 15-10-1977 | |||||
| * | Raft Shaft (pitch 2) | 15 | 35m | ||
| The major L-facing corner at the far R end of the ledge. 2. 23m 15. Scramble to top of sloping pedestal. Up short chimney section then bridge up to the ledge. Rap off possible here. 3. 12m. Easily over roof and up to the top. | |||||
| Kim Carrigan, Pete Taylor (alt. leads) Mike Law 22.2.1975 | |||||
| * * | The Great Pretender | 17 | 22m | ||
| A very photogenic route that made the front cover of the 2001 select guide. Start 5m R of the major corner of Raft Shaft (pitch 2) at the foot of the sloping pedestal. Up slab and line of scoops (7BR and wires) to large ledge. 2BB. | |||||
| Chris Wilmott, Nina Cullen 22-5-2000 | |||||
| Merlins Stone | 2 | 12m | |||
| A large detached pinnacle 50M L of the top of Scanner. Start at the NE arete. | |||||
| Chris Wilmott, Matt Diegutis (both solo) 3-6-2000 | |||||
| Rope-A-Dope | 11 | 35m | |||
| Start in a L-facing corner capped by a roof, directly above Cool Tool. 1. 20m 11. Corner crack to roof. R under root and up to boulders (watch rope drag). 2. 15m 6. Up crack and step L to arete. Continue L to gully. | |||||
| Chris Wilmott, Matt Diegutis 3-6-2000 | |||||
| Swim with the Stream | 12 | 30m | |||
| Start on wall L of the arete directly above Scanner. Up and R (3BR) to arete. Up arete (runout) to ledge (BR). Balance along edge of arete then up arete (SLCDs) to top. 1BB and tree anchors. | |||||
| Chris Wilmott, Matt Diegutis 4-6-2000 | |||||
| Only Dead Fish | 14 | 27m | |||
| Start 13m R of Swim with the Stream, directly above the top of Static. Up middle of slab (3BR, small SLCD) to ledge (large SLCD). Gingerly over cracked bulge on arete (crux) then up arete as for Swim with the Stream (SLCDs) to top. 1BB and tree anchors. | |||||
| Chris Wilmott, Matt Diegutis 4-6-2000 | |||||
| Finding Nemo | 13 | 30m | |||
| An exercise in rope retrieval. The line 2m R of Only Dead Fish. | |||||
| Stu Dobbie, Enmoore Lin 2008 | |||||
| Self Aggradising Mumbo-Jumbo | 11 | 11m | |||
| Start 25m R of anchor 2 of Raft Shaft. Up hand crack in middle of slab to the top. Descend R. | |||||
| Chris Wilmott, Matt Diegutis 4-6-2000 | |||||
